News

TR Seal Replacement

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Jerrari, May 12, 2008.

  1. Jerrari

    Jerrari F1 Veteran

    Jul 24, 2001
    5,458
    Michigan
    Full Name:
    Jerry Wiersma
    Referring to the linked diagram below (thanks Daniel), has anyone ever replaced the seal #47 & bellows #29? Just wondering how much you have to remove to get to it. I assume the entire shift linkage, if not more. I have a lift, so that's a good start. Thanks in advance, Jerry.

    http://www.ricambiamerica.com/article_info.php?articles_id=2875
     
  2. To remove this ad click here.

  3. Mr.Chairman

    Mr.Chairman F1 Rookie

    Mar 21, 2008
    2,936
    New Jersey
    Full Name:
    Robbie
    I have the exact same question. My seal is leaking and needs to be done. I think you have to remove to pre cat pipe, engine mount and gear box side plate. Should be able to do this with the engine in. I am getting ready to have clutch replaced (my choice is Arena Motors). I was hoping to get an estimate from Steve on this. I have not spoken to him yet on this seal issue. I would prefer to do myself but I am hesitant on removing the linkage (screw up settings). Some professional imput would be great appreciated.

    R
     
  4. Jeff Pintler

    Jeff Pintler Formula Junior

    Jul 20, 2005
    528
    Richland
    Full Name:
    Jeff Pintler
    While you are there, you might check the condition of #36 bushing. Mine was so oil soaked that the shaft wouldn't travel the correct distance(rubber dissolved) and I thought the syncros had failed. But it was a good thing, because the differential carrier was replaced with a one piece unit and the syncros were replaced during the "repair". Hope my wife never reads this forum. FWIW.

    Jeff Pintler
    89 348tb, 86tr
     
  5. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

    Oct 30, 2002
    3,317
    Alabama (was Mich.)
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    Seal #47 is the infamous shift-shaft seal. I believe you must remove the left-front header, and also the left front motor mount, and finally the transmission cover plate, to get to the o-ring (seal). Bellows #47 is probably okay as it's only job is to prevent dirt and debris from getting into the shift-shaft seal area. It's not really designed to prevent gearbox lubricant from getting out. Do a search on shift shaft seal and see what pops up.
     
  6. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed BANNED

    Nov 10, 2005
    1,668
    Ithaca, New York
    Full Name:
    Kerry David Wittig
    That's good news........mine has a small tear in it......But at $126 a pop, I think I'll just fill it with some wheel bearing grease and call it a day!!

    Bellowing Me
     
  7. To remove this ad click here.

  8. Philwozza

    Philwozza Formula 3

    Apr 23, 2009
    2,045
    Winchester UK
    Full Name:
    Phil Worrall
  9. Philwozza

    Philwozza Formula 3

    Apr 23, 2009
    2,045
    Winchester UK
    Full Name:
    Phil Worrall
    Sounds about right to me car guy.

    P
     
  10. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 9, 2006
    2,921
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    Yep, Jeff is right. RHS front exhaust manifold. Gearbox side cover. Obviously the shifter linkage and bolt.

    I found it better to remove the single 13mm bolt inside the gearbox and actually slip the selector shaft out of the gearbox. Then whilst it's out, do the seal and replace the bush at the same time. Very common for the bush to be oil soaked and sloppy shifts will be the result of this.

    Allow five hours, especially if some of your exhaust nuts are rusty.

    Super easy to do when engine is out obviously.
     
  11. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 9, 2006
    2,921
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    #9 uzz32soarer, Aug 24, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  12. To remove this ad click here.

  13. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed BANNED

    Nov 10, 2005
    1,668
    Ithaca, New York
    Full Name:
    Kerry David Wittig
    Where is it listed on the site?
     
  14. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,879
    not sure which bolt you mean - is it not shown in the pic?

    Rgds,
    Vincenzo
     
  15. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    19,901
    Texas
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #12 Steve Magnusson, Aug 24, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The "bolt at the top" and shift shaft have already been removed in the photo that Rob posted -- here's one with the "bolt at the top", the small casting arm that makes the gear selection, and the shift shaft still in place:
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  16. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,879
    #13 vincenzo, Aug 25, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thanks Steve, that pic helps a lot!

    One more question, please.... which PN is the referenced bush?

    Rgds,
    Vincenzo
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  17. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 9, 2006
    2,921
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    Whoops, my bad!

    Thanks for the pickup Steve. Forgot I already had it out in the picture. Sorry.

    The referenced bush is #36 there are two in the car and the one at the rear wears a lot.
     
  18. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed Owner

    Jul 25, 2008
    13,203
    Amersfoort, Holland.
    Full Name:
    Mel
    While my gb was completely refurbished, all came out and these parts were (of course) renewed.

    Dunno if it is a simple repair otherwise, don't think so ..... :eek:
     
  19. rsqrd930

    rsqrd930 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 5, 2011
    9
    Phoenix AZ
    Full Name:
    Richard Roth
    Gosh I hate to wake up an 11 year old thread, but my TR is almost 30, so..

    I did this repair and followed these instructions, quite good and l learned that you need 6 different tools to take off 6 different nuts on the exhaust. But I digress...
    Anyway, all good BUT I don't see any way to remove the shaft from the transaxle once everything is loose. It will slide forward sure, but it smacks right into the frame and the rod coming from the shifter.
    Did I miss a step? Since the oring is on the outside of the case (from the PICS here) maybe the rod doesn't HAVE to come out not sure I could slide the oring over the end of the rod, but...

    Maybe if you disconnect the engine mount on the other side, and support the engine and 'tilt ' it down, the rod would come out, but there seems to be a LOT in the way of it just sliding forward and out.

    Engine out? No problem. Engine in? Someone educate me please...
     
  20. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Two Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    27,086
    Austin TX
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    Actually the O ring is sandwiched between the front cover and the main housing. The shaft needs to come all the way out. Been a while since I did it last but I'd get the shift rod aft of the turnbuckle off and out of the way. With the one mount off I think that corner can be raised enough. If not remove the bolt on the other side.
     
  21. rsqrd930

    rsqrd930 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 5, 2011
    9
    Phoenix AZ
    Full Name:
    Richard Roth
    #18 rsqrd930, Mar 21, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2019
    So, when you say the Shift rod AFT, you mean the one going to the front of the car? Amd , raise the engine not lower? Not so sure that will still clear anything, but worth a look.
    After looking at the pics, I realize I didn't take off the front cover... maybe THATs why. SHould I take that off before trying to remove the rod, that would make a difference I bet...
     
  22. tbakowsky

    tbakowsky F1 World Champ
    Professional Ferrari Technician Consultant

    Sep 18, 2002
    15,391
    The Cold North
    Full Name:
    Tom
    You do not need to remove the front cover. Remove the shift shaft which connects to the gear box coupler. Once that is out of the way, the transmission shaft can be removed.
     
  23. xplodee

    xplodee Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Jan 3, 2017
    1,026
    Allentown, PA
    Full Name:
    Tim
    Bumping up this thread because I’ll be performing this repair (including replacing the 2x #36 bushings with delrin).

    Is there an alignment procedure when reinstalling the shift shaft back into the tranny? In another thread experts have said that adjustment of the shift fingers can have a big effect on smooth shifting. I’d like to do whatever I can while the work is being done to improve the car if possible.

    T
     
  24. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    2,879
    Looking forward to the continuation of this thread.
    More detail would be a great help to those of us with a drippy shaft ;)
     
    xplodee likes this.
  25. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 29, 2008
    4,998
    Madison Ohio
    Full Name:
    David A.
    There is a set up pin you use to set the forks. The dimensions and procedure is in WSM.
     
  26. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    6,609
    southwest germany
    Full Name:
    romano schwabel
    you are sure? ? ?

    this set up pin is for the shaft going inside the gearbox to fix in 2nd gear and not for the forks
     
  27. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    6,609
    southwest germany
    Full Name:
    romano schwabel
    for the forks to adjust there is no pin.
     
  28. jgmblair

    jgmblair Formula Junior

    May 27, 2010
    497
    Winnipeg, MB Canada
    Full Name:
    Jeff Blair
    I replaced the silent blocs in my car with derlin and this winter will replace them with the OEM rubber core type. They do degrade with age and the upgrade in theory should produce a tighter system and subsequently better shifting. I was surprised at the increase in cabin noise transmitted thru the shift shaft and thus the reason I’m changing back to OEM. It takes some work to align and tighten the shift shaft properly, there is a good write up in the wsm on the procedure and making the special tool to hold things in place was a must for me! I’m sure the pros can do this in their sleep by feel but not so easy for the average person. Verrel makes a tool to pull the bushings, even with the tool the cabin bushing is a PITA.

    Just my 2 cents but I think a properly adjusted shift shaft with OEM bushing and fresh gear oil is the way to go. I would guess many owners with poorly shifting cars have suffered someone messing around with the alignment, it is very precise and small movements at the turnbuckle when tightening things up can have big consequences. It takes time and patients to do it properly.

    Good luck and post your progress.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    xplodee and turbo-joe like this.

Share This Page