TR Seal Replacement

I have the exact same question. My seal is leaking and needs to be done. I think you have to remove to pre cat pipe, engine mount and gear box side plate. Should be able to do this with the engine in. I am getting ready to have clutch replaced (my choice is Arena Motors). I was hoping to get an estimate from Steve on this. I have not spoken to him yet on this seal issue. I would prefer to do myself but I am hesitant on removing the linkage (screw up settings). Some professional imput would be great appreciated.

R

 

While you are there, you might check the condition of #36 bushing. Mine was so oil soaked that the shaft wouldn't travel the correct distance(rubber dissolved) and I thought the syncros had failed. But it was a good thing, because the differential carrier was replaced with a one piece unit and the syncros were replaced during the "repair". Hope my wife never reads this forum. FWIW.

Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86tr

 

Seal #47 is the infamous shift-shaft seal. I believe you must remove the left-front header, and also the left front motor mount, and finally the transmission cover plate, to get to the o-ring (seal). Bellows #47 is probably okay as it's only job is to prevent dirt and debris from getting into the shift-shaft seal area. It's not really designed to prevent gearbox lubricant from getting out. Do a search on shift shaft seal and see what pops up.

 

That's good news........mine has a small tear in it......But at $126 a pop, I think I'll just fill it with some wheel bearing grease and call it a day!!

Bellowing Me

 

I can get you the original Ferrari part for $52 from www.forzacomponents.com

P

 

Sounds about right to me car guy.

P

 

Yep, Jeff is right. RHS front exhaust manifold. Gearbox side cover. Obviously the shifter linkage and bolt.

I found it better to remove the single 13mm bolt inside the gearbox and actually slip the selector shaft out of the gearbox. Then whilst it's out, do the seal and replace the bush at the same time. Very common for the bush to be oil soaked and sloppy shifts will be the result of this.

Allow five hours, especially if some of your exhaust nuts are rusty.

Super easy to do when engine is out obviously.

 

It's the bolt on top that is removed and then the selector shaft slides straight out.

You can see the seals in the second picture. It's actually an O ring.
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Where is it listed on the site?

 

not sure which bolt you mean - is it not shown in the pic?

Rgds,
Vincenzo

 

The "bolt at the top" and shift shaft have already been removed in the photo that Rob posted -- here's one with the "bolt at the top", the small casting arm that makes the gear selection, and the shift shaft still in place:
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Thanks Steve, that pic helps a lot!

One more question, please.... which PN is the referenced bush?

Rgds,
Vincenzo
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Whoops, my bad!

Thanks for the pickup Steve. Forgot I already had it out in the picture. Sorry.

The referenced bush is #36 there are two in the car and the one at the rear wears a lot.

 

While my gb was completely refurbished, all came out and these parts were (of course) renewed.

Dunno if it is a simple repair otherwise, don't think so .....

 

Gosh I hate to wake up an 11 year old thread, but my TR is almost 30, so..

I did this repair and followed these instructions, quite good and l learned that you need 6 different tools to take off 6 different nuts on the exhaust. But I digress...
Anyway, all good BUT I don't see any way to remove the shaft from the transaxle once everything is loose. It will slide forward sure, but it smacks right into the frame and the rod coming from the shifter.
Did I miss a step? Since the oring is on the outside of the case (from the PICS here) maybe the rod doesn't HAVE to come out not sure I could slide the oring over the end of the rod, but...

Maybe if you disconnect the engine mount on the other side, and support the engine and 'tilt ' it down, the rod would come out, but there seems to be a LOT in the way of it just sliding forward and out.

Engine out? No problem. Engine in? Someone educate me please...

 

Actually the O ring is sandwiched between the front cover and the main housing. The shaft needs to come all the way out. Been a while since I did it last but I'd get the shift rod aft of the turnbuckle off and out of the way. With the one mount off I think that corner can be raised enough. If not remove the bolt on the other side.

 

So, when you say the Shift rod AFT, you mean the one going to the front of the car? Amd , raise the engine not lower? Not so sure that will still clear anything, but worth a look.
After looking at the pics, I realize I didn't take off the front cover... maybe THATs why. SHould I take that off before trying to remove the rod, that would make a difference I bet...

 

You do not need to remove the front cover. Remove the shift shaft which connects to the gear box coupler. Once that is out of the way, the transmission shaft can be removed.

 

Bumping up this thread because I’ll be performing this repair (including replacing the 2x #36 bushings with delrin).

Is there an alignment procedure when reinstalling the shift shaft back into the tranny? In another thread experts have said that adjustment of the shift fingers can have a big effect on smooth shifting. I’d like to do whatever I can while the work is being done to improve the car if possible.

T

 

Looking forward to the continuation of this thread.
More detail would be a great help to those of us with a drippy shaft

 

There is a set up pin you use to set the forks. The dimensions and procedure is in WSM.

 

you are sure? ? ?

this set up pin is for the shaft going inside the gearbox to fix in 2nd gear and not for the forks

 

for the forks to adjust there is no pin.

 

I replaced the silent blocs in my car with derlin and this winter will replace them with the OEM rubber core type. They do degrade with age and the upgrade in theory should produce a tighter system and subsequently better shifting. I was surprised at the increase in cabin noise transmitted thru the shift shaft and thus the reason I’m changing back to OEM. It takes some work to align and tighten the shift shaft properly, there is a good write up in the wsm on the procedure and making the special tool to hold things in place was a must for me! I’m sure the pros can do this in their sleep by feel but not so easy for the average person. Verrel makes a tool to pull the bushings, even with the tool the cabin bushing is a PITA.

Just my 2 cents but I think a properly adjusted shift shaft with OEM bushing and fresh gear oil is the way to go. I would guess many owners with poorly shifting cars have suffered someone messing around with the alignment, it is very precise and small movements at the turnbuckle when tightening things up can have big consequences. It takes time and patients to do it properly.

Good luck and post your progress.


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