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Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by AEHaas, Mar 22, 2004.
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Ali, they say that your eyes are the second thing to go. (I forget what goes first.) Unfortunately, I can't read your chart. I assume that it says that Mobil 1 is still the way to go?
I am currently using 0W-20 in the Maranello, and 0W-30 Mobil 1 in the Murcielago.
The 2 V12 MB's and the Expedition are getting regular (dino) Pennzoil 5W-20 motor oil.
Nice work Aehaas! I notice that the differences between Mobil 1 0w-30 and 5w-30 are very slim, why would this be?
this is interesting....why do you use mobil 0w 20 as opposed to shell helix ultra 5w 40 for your maranello.
i have a maranello with shell and notice that the oil pressure seems quite high esp when cold....up around 100 and then drifts down to 70.
does this mean my oil is too thick and therefore giving less lubrication?
I have a service due next month and wonder if I should get them to change oil to Mobil 0w 20
any info/thoughts greatly appreciated
Oil too thick, yes;
less lubrication, not really; however you are paying an efficiency effect (power and gas milage) by pumping the thick oil throughout the engine.
There is little difference between Mobil 1 comparing the 0W-30 to the 5W-30 at 104F and 212F but at zero or 32F there is a big difference. The 0W-30 is less like mud. It has at least some flow at very low temperatures.
At full operating temperature the Helix 5W-40 gave me around 85 PSI at 2,000 PRM. The 20 wt oil gives me about 70-75 PSI at 2,000 RPM. the 575 Maranello manual states the target pressure is 75-80 PSI at 6,000 RPM, not more, not less. I probably need a 10 wt. oil to comply. This data has been acknowledged with FNA.
I like Shell Helix but it is too thick, too honey like at start up temperatures. Even Mobil 1 is too thick and mud like but it is the least thick oil at lower temperatures.
All engine oils made to date are way too thick at temperatures below 150F but Mobil 1 0W-X oils are the least honey like of them all at start up.
I have really enjoyed your various threads on oil and you have convinced me that synthetic oil is superior and you have conveyed the value of using thinner oil.
I was puzzled to learn that you use Dino oil in your MBZ V12s and your Expedition. From your posts it seems like there would not be a valid case for running Dino oil. Could you please elaborate on your rational for the Dino oil especially in you MBZ V12.
Also, does anybody have any recommendations about introducing synthetic oil in a car that has used Dino oil for all of its life? At the BMW dealer, they do not recommend introducing synthetic oil in a vehicle that has used Dino oil. Is there an issue with "switching" from Dino to synthetic or vice versa?
Mark: There seems to be a common misconception that a car having used 'Dino' will leak like a sieve on synthetic.
My 1975 GT4 has had Castrol GTX in it for 26 years. Switched to Mobil 1 for the last 3 years with no ill effects whatsoever. (The front distr leaks, but it also leaked with the Castrol.)
I'll admit I'm a dummy when it comes to oil.
What are your thoughts on using an electric oil heater during cold winter months? My garage isn't heated, but I do want to drive the car on a crisp winter day. Assuming I stay on 5W30 Mobil1, would an oil heater make any significant difference to my start-up wear?
Based on Ali's comments, sounds like you might just want to use a thinner oil, if you are concerned; like Mobil 1 0w-30, and dispense with the heater. The only time I see heaters used is with subzero temps, like that found in the midwest and Alaska. It is needed, or the car won't even turn over!
I have rented cars in the deep of winter in Alaska, and they seemed to always start fine, even without the heater plugged in....go figure. But I am sure it would have turned over easier and put less strain on the starter motor to have used the heater. Some parking lots just don't have the electrical outlets at each parking spot, while others do. Depends on the hotel I'm staying at.
0W-30 Mobil 1 is actually a little thicker at operating temperature than 5-W-30. They are both about the same thickness at 104F. The Zero- oil is however less thick, less honey - like when at say 32F or 0F. For North Carolina I would use the 0W-30 if I needed a 30 wt oil at operating temperature. Using this oil will probably be good to start at as low as -20F. And yes, your engine will wear more when cold.
If you kept your engine at 200F all the time somehow, you could just get in and go. You could use a straight 30 wt oil.
I would not classify the 0W-30 as thinner than the 5W-30 or the 10W-30. They are all the same thickness at your engine's operating temperature, about 10 cS. In fact the Mobil One 0W-30 is slightly thicker than the other two at operating temperature.
Useless little factoid: The first OEM factory fill using synthetic in mass produced (ie - not HD trucks or performance cars) vehicles was during the build of the Alaska pipeline. Chevy trucks were specially modified at the factory for North Slope service, and one of the mods was synthetic fluids. Seems at -50F the Dino oil is almost solid. This was right about the time that Mobil 1 originally hit the market.