Vacuum Advance on a 123Ignition-Installed Dino 246GT - Good Idea? | FerrariChat

Vacuum Advance on a 123Ignition-Installed Dino 246GT - Good Idea?

Discussion in '206/246' started by fhenley, Jul 4, 2023.

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  1. fhenley

    fhenley Karting
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    Sep 5, 2022
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    Saratoga California
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    Francois Henley
    I recently installed a 123Ignition (Bluetooth enabled) on my Dino #4486. It was originally a 1973, but the luminaries at the California DMV insisted that to register it here in California, it should be a 1972 since the MFR data was Sept 1972. This is why you may see some older threads for this car as a 1973.


    In any event, the distributor runs well but I continue to fight an occasional stumble that occurs just as I start opening the throttle. It could occur at 2000-4000 RPM in different gears but if push more on the throttle, the engine responds well and pulls without issue.


    In my research, one possibility is the engine runs lean at almost closed throttle and should be advanced more. This is sometimes tuned out with a vacuum advance.


    My 123Ignition build in a 246gt distributor does not have the vacuum port connected to the disti side but I think I can fix that. I put a similar 123Ignition module on my E-Type S3 and the vacuum on the distributor was able to be connected via a nipple on its side.


    Assuming the vacuum input will be available to the 123Ignition module, I see that a vacuum nipple seems to be available on the car. It seems to be a nipple adaptor connected to the manifold just below the center Weber. It is plugged with a rubber vacuum cap. See pics.


    First question: is this indeed a vacuum connection to the manifold?


    If so, I would connect this to the 123Ignition and program an advance when there is high vacuum such as little/no load. This will allow more time for combustion in a lean condition. If you push the throttle more, the manifold vacuum will be reduced and the advance will be reduced/eliminated. Anyway, that’s the idea.


    Anybody else tried to enable vacuum advance on a 246GT/GTS? Why didn’t Ferrari not have a vacuum advance function to avoid these issues?


    Is messing with the carbs and jets a better way? The car runs great except for this issue so I am concerned about adjusting the carbs and developing unintended consequences.

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  2. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    Dec 22, 2007
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    I have never heard of a need for vacuum advance on a 246 Dino. Are you running standard factory jets in the carburetor's? It's a well known fact that this could cause hesitation in the 2000 to 4000 rpm's interval using today's modern fuel. The cure is to go up approximately one jet size, either adjusting the idle jet or main jet - Most often adjusting the idle jet is sufficient (For me anyway). Ensure your ignition is set up absolutely correct before starting on carburetor adjustment. I can recommend to read Rob's world class wright up on Carb tuning on Dino246.com:

    Dino 246 Restoration Blog: August 2014 (dino246blog.blogspot.com)

    Best, Peter
     
  3. TonyL

    TonyL F1 Rookie

    Sep 27, 2007
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    Like Peter I have never seen vac advance on the Dino V6, From your description I would say its a problem with the transition from idle to main circuit. Jetting to cater for modern E10 fuels cause issues with the factory settings.

    Float level is ultra important to get right as this controls the level of fuel in the progression ports and can cause problems you are experiencing.

    I would look at the carb set up before re-inventing the wheel!

    Tony
     
  4. swift53

    swift53 F1 Veteran
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    Nov 17, 2007
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    Francois,
    On the Alfa Romeo chat, many insist that the 123 system, does not meet expectations.
    Others say it is OK,
    What was wrong with the Marelli?

    Regards, Alberto
     
  5. Ken Ivey

    Ken Ivey Formula Junior
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    Jan 6, 2013
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    Unless you have "tied-down" or removed the original advance system, then no need for an additional advance system. I've not used the 123 system, but I believe it has advance programmed in. Very likely it is the jetting. There is a very good thread on changes that are appropriate for modern fuels, I'm sure one of the tech-savvy users will give you the correct link. I followed the recommendations in the thread and the mid-rpm transaction is very good, and easily accomplished.
     
  6. fhenley

    fhenley Karting
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    Sep 5, 2022
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    Francois Henley
    Thanks to all of the comments.

    I have used the 123Ignition on my 1954 XK120, 1972 E-type S3 V12 and another car I sold, a 1971 S2 E-Type 4.2L V6. All work very well on this ignition. I have looked at the response in all of these cars and believe the unit is solid and precise. If it does not perform well, it may be that the static advance is not known for the car or the vacuum advance function is not understood and programmed incorrectly. For example, after a rebuild of my V12, the car ran poorly until I found out by measuring the TDC on 1A cylinder via a tool & gauge that the mark was 14-degrees off! Car ran great after the static was adjusted correctly. The vacuum advance in a 123Ignition is absolute pressure, meaning 0kPa=vac, 100kPa=Atm & 200kPa=+1Atm boost. This could be confusing.

    Anyway, I have also paid attention to timing advance curve, starting at static advance 0-degrees and using 9-degrees from 500RPM, going up to 39-degrees at 5500RPM. This is the purple curve in the following thread:

    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/optimized-advance-curve-for-the-246gt.291330/

    These are form the thread:
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    It is from the "1973 US 246GT Owner's Guide". This car is a US model so it should have 40 DCNF/19 carbs but that's one thing I will check.

    My 123Ignition curve is:
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    The mechanic I am using has significant experience in tuning 246GT cars and has also done full restorations. We noticed the carbs had some larger/incorrect jets and adjustments but we had changed it all back to spec:

    0.55mm Idle jet
    1.25mm Main Jet (was 1.4mm)
    0.5mm Pump jet (was 0.4mm)

    All settings are back to the /19 specs, including the vertical float @ 52mm.

    I am running 100 octane fuel which I can get here at a particular gas station serving the motorcyclists taking the popular HWY 9 & HWY 35 run to Alice's here in the Bay Area. Maybe this can cause an issue?

    I may try the more aggressive green curve as it does have more advance @ lower RPM. The reasoning for this is to aid in the low-end response, pretty close to what I need. Any reason I should not?

    To be clear, there is no residual mechanical advance system in the distributor. It is just the 123Ignition module.

    123Ignition confirmed that this unit does indeed have a vacuum port but it is not connected. I would have to install a 1/4" or 5/32" vac bulkhead connector on the disti & run the tube internally to the module's nipple.

    Perhaps the low hanging fruit here is to try the green curve, then go through another full carb setup/tuning.

    The nice thing about the vac advance is that once the line is connected, I can still not use it but it would be interesting to try....
     
  7. Stefan Elshout

    Stefan Elshout Karting

    Dec 1, 2011
    167
    Holland
    I did mess around a lot with different curves, vacuum advance, dyno tests etc. etc. on a Dino engine. Also with a programmable 123-ignition with vacuum.
    In the end it really did not do anything at all, vacuum advance might make it marginally more efficient, but that's all. In the end i went back to the original curve, that is just perfect. You might gain 1 or 2 HP by advancing a couple degrees but for me it's not worth it.
    I drove it for about 6000km and than the 123 was only causing problems all the time. Ditched it altogether and went back to original distributor and MSD ignition inside a Dinoplex case. Running flaweless ever since.
    The problem you describe is carburettor related. Go 1 or 2 sizes larger on the main and idle jets compared to stock, and transfer from idle to main circuit is much better.
     
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  8. fhenley

    fhenley Karting
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    Hi Stefan,

    Sounds like you did a lot of work. Glad you’re setup works for you. Not sure what the issues you had with the 123Ignition but it’s worked well for me across a few cars.

    My interest is to resolve the occasional throttle opening stumble issue, not trying for better performance or efficiency. Sounds like you believe it is the carburetors and I tend to agree. Perhaps focusing to achieve better idle to main transfer would solve the root cause. Vacuum advancing would be more like a bandaid to the real issue if it worked at all.
     
  9. Stefan Elshout

    Stefan Elshout Karting

    Dec 1, 2011
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    Holland
    I use 123 ignition on some of my other cars as well and i'm totally happy with it.
    For the Dino on the other hand it's not a happy marriage. I think they changed to Capacitive Discharge system for good reasons back in the 60's when they designed the Dinoplex for the Dino engine. An inductive system with a ignition module that can run a low resistance coil (0.8Ohm or lower) is also capable of doing the job. But the 123 ignition is quite weak, you most likely run an ignition coil with a resistance of around 1.6Ohm or higher right??

    On my car it started out with having to replace randomly spark plugs every 1000km, than it was unstable at idle, on the Dyno i noticed it was losing to much power at higher rev's, after some more miles it started misfiring randomly.... The Dino distributor also does not have a rotor with a resistor, and the circuit board is just below the rotor on the 123...that caused it to fry the circuit board etc etc.
    But it was working ok'ish for a some 1000km's. Just keep it in mind if you experience problems in the future, i might just have had bad luck:)
     
  10. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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  11. fhenley

    fhenley Karting
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    Francois Henley
    I’ve tried MSD on a 427 Cobra replica I had for a while and I was very happy with it. The install was in the mid 90’s. I now feel that this is fairly old tech and that’s why I started looking at other ignition solutions.

    I like the 123Ignition because of the Bluetooth programmability. I’ve dabble in the ignition systems a bit as well. I also published my work to integrate a 123Ignition in my V12 S3 E-Type in this link:

    https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/installing-a-bluetooth-enabled-123ignition-distributor-on-a-xke-s3-v12/413476

    Stefan, I feel that maybe the 123Ignition issues is you’re using the module to directly drive the coil.

    That may work with most cars but the Dino is different. It’s a high revving engine and it is likely that the module cannot keep up and can overheat. The distributor holding the module may also be in a pretty hot area and with this added load to drive the coil, this could explain your issues with the 123Ignition system for the Dino.

    What I did was use the « 123 Big Fat Spark » (#8755 option) where an ignition amplifier is used to drive a coil with specs selected for this amplifier (#8757 option). This is apparently good to 8000rpm+ for a 6. This is a strong spark all the way to high RPM and the module is not required to drive large currents.

    https://www.123ignition.de/123-ignition-en/ignition-booster-big-fat-spark.aspx

    I installed the module on the ignition plate that goes in the trunk. I installed it with a good heat sink layer (you could kind of see it as a pale blue layer surrounding the module) that will use the whole plate as a heat sink. I don’t think I need this but I did it to be sure it would stay cool no matter what. The picture shows the coil & drive module. Having low impedance wiring is also key here. Thin or badly connected wires can source ignition issues.

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    The top of the distributor with the 123Ignition module. Note the yellow paint mark. That's the 0 degree advance position of the rotor compared to Cyl 3. It is close to the edge since I start at least 6 but I currently use 9 degree BTDC as the min. I want the whole rotor width to be usable for advance timing. At the 39-degree max. advance, the yellow mark would be closer to the other rotor width edge.

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    I hope this helps understand my setup better.

    As a side note, the mid-range stumble occurred before this upgrade as well. I was hoping the electronic ignition would resolve most or all of the issue but it didn't do much.

    I think it is the carburation and jet crossover.

    I will continue to research what this is, but I'll look at the jet link if I can find it.
     
  12. Stefan Elshout

    Stefan Elshout Karting

    Dec 1, 2011
    167
    Holland
    Regarding the stumble i would indeed focus on the jets/carburettors.
    For the ignition system, just go with it and see where it leads to, you might be just fine.
    I totally understand what your saying though. I used the 123ignition just as is to drive the coil, i used it to trigger a module like your setup, and i used it to trigger an MSD system, did all the rotor phasing with the whole setup on a distributor testbench to be perfectly spot on etc. etc. so it's not that i didn't try to make it good and reliable;-)
    Please share your outcome once you've traced the cause of the stumble.
     
  13. fhenley

    fhenley Karting
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    Sep 5, 2022
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    Francois Henley
    Sounds like you put in your time in this area as well.

    I see you had issues despite having a similar setup using a separate ignition drive module. I’ll take that to heart and keep an eye on it.

    I’ll also take the original distributor and rebuild it as a ready substitute with associated parts (coil, drive module, etc. just in case…
     

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