Want to try engine out service on my own, question...

If you enjoy working on cars, and want to do this again, then buy a lift.

I don’t enjoy rolling on my back just to fight into position for leverage. So I bought an extended height four post lift for my Testarossa. After this current service it is more than paid off. No strain on my body. The car moves to me. Most of the service is with the engine out of the car. But uncoupling the engine was nice with a lift.

You can buy a two post lift for 2k but installation requires concrete work (most residential garages). I was looking at scissor lifts before a hot rod builder told me to consider a four post. They are versatile (look up bridge jacks) and easy to install.

You won’t have any regrets. Your back will thank you and back problems are harder to fix.

 

if you buy a lift it is not only a 1 time piece you will use

 

If you have space for a lift I'm sure you'll wonder why you ever tried working on the car without one. I'm part way through clearing a barn in order to install a 4-poster, and I can hardly wait to get one.
I've decided to get one with a wheel kit, just in case it has to be relocated. Also including a jacking beam, which seems essential to me.

 

+1 to all the above comments. Once you have a lift, it won't just be an engine out you'll be performing.

 

I yank them out the top out of convenience especially if Im doing a diff. Take a 512TR for example, it can only come out the top and Testarossa can go either way. If you're doing a diff and you drop the engine out the bottom you then have to undo the axles, mounts, exhaust etc and remove it from the cradle anyway. The extra advantage for me is I dont have a hoist out of commission if I run into a hurdle which often happens with these cars. You'll want to lift the engine off the box to pull the front cover because its probably leaking and the water pump bearings are probably lumpy by now too.

 

and back problems are much more expensive than a $10K engine out.

 

This was my sales job to my wife when I bought my lift, told her I could do the annual change over of the snow tires on our cars and the kids cars which costs $200 per year.
I have NEVER changed snow tires hahaha!

 

How do you handle the engine out with a 4 post lift? I would think the wheels would need to stay in the ground?

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There are fifty ways to leave your lover and at least five ways to take the engine out with a 4 post lift.

 

Come over to the 355 area and look up how we do engine out on a 355. I have one right now on my lift.

 

Safety is the most important aspect of this job. A 2 post lift is the best option. However your floor must have the proper footings to support the lift. 6 inch depth is the minimum. Once that is sorted, a properly made stand is very important, or the use of jack stands is recommended.

This is not a job for a person just looking to save money. Mechanical aptitude is a must along with a bit of physics for weight distribution of the car on the hoist, and for the powertrain. Doing the actual work is not hard, but making sure that car doesn't fall is far more important. Be safe, and be smart.

 

Here is the process I used.
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Make ramps, roll the car back so the rear subframe clears. Loosen wheel bolts, insert blocks under rear jacking points and lift just enough to remove wheels. Lower the car on the engine cart. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Adjust engine cart so it contacts frame (thanks Vincenzo!). Disconnect subframe bolts and raise the car.
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My car was 11” out of my garage. So I needed to dolley my car and slide it forward. I bought a lift that raises high enough for me to walk under it. The compromise is it is way too long.

 

Yes, that is how it is done on a four post lift. As for safety, only raise the lift with the car overhang the back like that if there is no weight from the engine. It has to be disconnected totally from the body. The car without the engine and its subframe will not tip back because there is hardly any weight behind the jacking points at that phase. And if you want an extra measure of insurance, tie the front wheel down to the lift platform with tow ropes.

After the engine is off, dolly the car sans engine and push it back over the lift. Support it with wood blocks under the jacking points again and it is very stable.

This method has worked for Mondial, 348, 355, Porsche 911, 996, 997 GT3, 997 Turbo...

 

I went with a BendPak scissor style lift 8000 lbs rated and has given me excellent exposure for my Boxer. It has a small footprint, movable and fits in my garage more easily than a 2 post. With the high lift pads, I was easily able to remove and replace the body pan- access is excellent.
Best investment!
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FYI, if you are concerned the car may tip back, chain the front frame to the lift runways. This way, if it does tip a bit, the chains stop it from tipping too far.

 

the lift looks great - easy access, but remember.....

without adequate concrete thickness, reinforcement and strength - your car will tip over.

a scissor jack is not nearly as convenient, but it does not depend on your concrete.

 

add plenty of rebar! Lag & glue the new rebar into your existing pad and make your new pour extra wide/long/deep. Consider getting a professional engineer to review your plans. After you knock out the existing concrete, you can better assess the existing pad - thickness/ rebar etc

Good Luck - keep us posted.

 

If I had it to do all over again...

I would work an extra couple week or two at work, and pay someone to do the major.

I love doing everything myself. But it took way longer than I thought. It's a great opportunity to learn about the car, do things right, and fix every little thing.

But if the major is 10k, 4K of that is parts, oil, etc. so, you are saving 6k...

I wouldn't ever attempt this without a lift. Risk of injury or car damage far exceeds any savings...

 

My experience included the first major being done by a ‘professional’ that left the cam timing more than 4degrees off.

I agree with you on having it done professionally - but only by somebody that truly knows what they are doing. When the true professional charges a bunch of cash - grin and bear it.....

...or do it yourself.

Just beware - it is far more complex than an American V8.

 

Everything is different...

You need shims...

Weird way of doing timing...

Heaven forbid you intend to replace the water pump seal... you need to be Sherlock Holmes junior to do it right. I spent weeks researching how to do it so it doesn’t leak. Multiple episodes ordering the right part that turned out not to match. Trying to understand cryptic answers from pros on this board on how to do it properly with no definitive answers...

I triple checked everything 10 times.

You can’t screw up. The price of failure is too high. You cant seal something wrong, as the price is taking the motor out again... you cant just go out and buy fuel lines...

Refinishing the cam covers...

Replating hardware...

Installing 220 v in the garage so I could do powder coating...

Etc, etc, etc...

Next time, IF I ever do this myself, I’m changing the belts and tensioner, and that’s it. Button it back up...

And, if you do something wrong you risk thrashing a 40k$ motor. Can’t go on Jegs and get a crate flat 12...

 

I’m a checkbook mechanic. I make more than my mechanic. Funny how that works.


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