Weak Mondial 3.2 horn | FerrariChat

Weak Mondial 3.2 horn

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Frank-V, Apr 16, 2018.

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  1. Frank-V

    Frank-V Rookie

    Apr 16, 2018
    2
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Frank
    Hi All from down under!

    Have just purchased a 1986 Mondial 3.2 and I’m slowly working through a list of issues that need sorting.
    Wondering if anyone has had to fix a weak sounding horn. Pressing the horn button requires firm pressure only to produce a muted, low tone and not very loud sound.

    Any ideas?
     
  2. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 19, 2008
    38,087
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Full Name:
    Terry H Phillips
    Probably the compressor for the air horns needs oil or something is loose. Most people do not realize the compressor has oil in it.
     
  3. Frank-V

    Frank-V Rookie

    Apr 16, 2018
    2
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Frank
    Thanks Tazandjan,

    It does sound as though the horn/s need a bit more puff! Is this a common problem?
     
  4. jmaienza

    jmaienza Formula Junior
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jan 8, 2009
    608
    Massachusetts
    Full Name:
    Joe
    Also, check the hoses for any leaks.
     
  5. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 19, 2008
    38,087
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Full Name:
    Terry H Phillips
    Affirmative, very common.
     
    mwr4440 likes this.
  6. theunissenguido

    theunissenguido Formula 3
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jan 21, 2004
    2,372
    Argent/Brasil
    Full Name:
    Guido
    Clean the electric contacts and grounds from horn and screen washer pump.
    See if you have 12 V at these points fusebox :
    Without contact on : upper side fuse 9 /underside fuse 9. Take relais e out (3e little (brown) from the upper left) and see you have 12 V upper and right contact + X10 (second contact left side of upper right white plug with wires).
    Also some Volt (voltage drop from internal coil) lower relais contact and at X11 (first contact left side of upper right white plug with wires). This goes to steering then to ground.
    Put e relais back.
    When pushing on the horn you should have 12 V at U4 (4e contact counting from under, of the middle vertical white plug with wires on the left side).
    If there is a current drop you will found out where it is...contacts, layers fuseboard, horn pump or horn switch.

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    Guido
     
  7. eulk328

    eulk328 F1 Rookie

    Feb 18, 2005
    2,800
    Full Name:
    F683
    All good suggestions here. A number of years back the horn was weak on my 328 or 355 (don't remember). I removed the horn relay, manually applied 12 volts to the relay coil contacts and then connected an ohmmeter to the closed contacts. I measured something like 2 or 3 ohms, if I recall. Way too much resistance. The internal relay contacts were probably damaged from pitting over time. Replaced the relay coil and all was good.

    I would start by connecting a voltmeter right on the horn compressor electrical terminals with the car idling. Have someone hold down the horn button. If you don't have good, strong voltage there I would work my way back toward the horn button itself although I would go right to the horn relay next since it's pretty easy to check. If you're not an electrical/electronics type I would buy a new relay and swap it out. If it fixes it, great. If not, put the old relay back in and you'll have a spare new relay on hand - never a bad thing. Then continue checking everything in between.
     
  8. eulk328

    eulk328 F1 Rookie

    Feb 18, 2005
    2,800
    Full Name:
    F683
    All good suggestions here. A number of years back the horn was weak on my 328 or 355 (don't remember). I removed the horn relay, manually applied 12 volts to the relay coil contacts and then connected an ohmmeter to the closed contacts. I measured something like 2 or 3 ohms, if I recall. Way too much resistance. The internal relay contacts were probably damaged from pitting over time. Replaced the relay coil and all was good.

    I would start by connecting a voltmeter right to the horn compressor electrical terminals with the car idling. Have someone hold down the horn button. If you don't have good, strong voltage there I would work my way back toward the horn button itself although I would go right to the horn relay next since it's pretty easy to check. If you're not an electrical/electronics type I would buy a new relay and swap it out. If it fixes it, great. If not, put the old relay back in and you'll have a spare new relay on hand - never a bad thing. Then continue checking everything in between.

    Alternatively, you could run a couple of (not too thin) wires from the car battery right to the horn compressor terminals. That would eliminate everything in between such as the horn button, fuse panel, relay, wiring, connectors etc. If the horn is still weak then it's likely the compressor is gummed-up inside, needs oil or new air hoses (leaking) or maybe all these.
     
  9. Cadillacbart

    Cadillacbart Formula Junior

    Nov 26, 2013
    436
    Denver, CO
    Full Name:
    John
    This:

     

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