Dino was down for a little over a year and a half, so long enough to be screwed by the CA gas. I tried to wake it gently with a slug of fuel treatment in the carbs, but one float stuck open, and I did a "dead-head" crank with #2 cylinder full of gas! I freaked out for a while, did a compression test and all seems ok. So now it is a complete rebuild of all 4 carbs. The belts are 8 years old, so it is also time for new ones and tensioners. Coolant flush (maybe rad out and cleaned), new brake fluid, oil, plugs, alt belt. The snowball may include water pump and thermostat. It was cooling just fine, but you know how this "while you are at it" goes. Then there is the oil leaks, do I chase a few of those down? So that means cam covers come off. Should I check valve lash? What else am I forgetting, oh yea, I want to prep for an AC project next summer, so I want to figure out the best compressor bracket. I will go after the fuel lines when I drop the tank for the AC lines. I think that is it until I look at it again Your bumpers are awesome so let me know if you want to build and sell me another set Edit: Holy crap, it was almost 2 years to the day since it was last driven. I went back and here is it's last photo running...
Yeah, that makes it tough. Oh well, if you get a chance and want to post some pictures of what you did I would be interested.
Getting a headache from carb cleaner. 2 year old gas makes for a job times 4. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Man I am getting old...I forgot but I think I have a small ultrasonic cleaners that I will use for the little bits. I don't want to dip the whole carb because I don't want to get into the throttle shaft and bearings. I am not sure if the dip will hurt those parts, but at this point I don't want to risk it. Ha ha, no medal here. But my Dad did give me that mug back in 1980 and I keep it around because it makes me think of him.
I used an ultra sonic cleaner on my carbs. Then splashed the bearings with acetone (absorbs water, evaporates quickly), then ACF50, then re-greased the bearings.
78 GTS us Got tired of dealing with the stock fuse blocks. I tried every trick including soldering the "rivets". Still had problems with the fuses losing contact. Especially on "spirited" drives on not so smooth roads. It would have been easier to just buy one of the blade after market blocks but what fun is that. I found 6 fuse blocks with no common along with necessary adapters. Total cost for parts about $85.00 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login . I cut the blocks down as much as I could and glued the removal backs to a fiberglass backing plate. It ended up being one long array of fuses that use the stock mounting bolts and locations. I cut the clear plastic covers that came with the new fuse blocks and glued them together then printed labels that mimic the stock ones. the plastic cover snaps on like the stock one. Took it out on a hard drive last sat and all is good. With AC and fans running for over an hour the fuses weren't even warm. It may be my imagination but I swear the after market fans I using for radiator cooling run faster.
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=195702030269442 Removed with laser a bad welding repair Ciao Image Unavailable, Please Login
I got my headrests done I like the new look,when the headrests where out I ground the last notch on the posts to 45deg like all the other notches So the removal is no problem anymore Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Finally got to the bottom of my gearbox leak, turns out the thread on the filler section of the gearbox has got cross threaded/ stretched over time after having many oil changes in its life, so had to tap a new 22mm 1.5 pitch thread into the whole length of the casing, not just the first half. You can see the bad thread at the front, and the un used GOOD thread at the rear Superformance do an updated longer length of bolt (Hills engineering)for this exact situation 36mm length, so now bone dry with zero leaks, with another crush washer installed as you can’t tell by picture Glad that went OK , as there was no other option.
Nice Job how did you get the cutting chips out of the gearbox the can’t stay in there and float around
Door panels going back in after refurbishment. Matching the new seat covers nicely. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my SM-S918U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Replaced rubber flap around fuel filler cap because ori showed cracks. Had to make the new flap slightly smaller as it is slightly thicker than ori
No started yet but just ordered some new CV boots to fit after reading the birdman’s write up and Dave’s comprehensive write up, as mine is slightly leaky but not split yet.
