Where Are The Damn Flywheel Markings?

We've had numerous, long discussions about the flywheel timing marks. If you search the old fchat you should find them...

 

First of all, there seem to be numerous different flywheels, each with different markings. For example, the early US flywheels on cars with the "R2" points will have different markings than Euro flywheels w/o the "R2" points.

The markings are, IMHO, damn near impossible to see. Get that gigantic socket (36mm??) needed for the front of the crankshaft. *Slowly* turn the engine (Important: In the direction that it runs) with someone who has a clue looking at the flywheel with a good flashlight. At each mark, put a dot of fingernail polish. This readily shows up with the timing light.

My car had a mark at 6deg ATDC, TDC, 16deg BTDC, and 34deg BTDC. Each is labeled in some goofy way. For example, the 34deg mark was 5A34 (or was it 34A5?) meaning that is the setting for 5000rpm.

 

This is what the hidden information you are looking for looks like. It's a challenge! This is from my 1976 308GT4. It was difficult to photograph let alone find in the first place.
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The easiest way to time your car is to remove the timing inspection plate on the flywheel housing, then turn the engine over by hand (it may be easier to remove the spark plugs) remembering to turn it in the direction of rotation, until the timing marks appear then mark the spot on the flywheel with a small dob of white paint.

You will have to do this two times for each reference because your engine has two distributers. I would mark the static mark (ie AF3) and the fully advanced mark (ie AM34), these figures will vary depending on what flywheel you have, but the theory is the same.

When you start the engine and are checking the timing with a strobe light you will easilly be able to see the timing marks.

Don't forget to operate the micro switch (if applicable) when checking the static timing so you can see the change of timing calibration

MW

 

To make the markings more visible, start the engine & hold the tip of a small stainless steel wire brush against the angled edge of the flywheel. It will clean the accumulated rust, clutch dust & dirt off & polish the surface.

You may need to use some solvent on a swab or sponge brush to clean the area

Once you've located the letters, fill them in with a yellow or white 'paint' crayon.

Also put a dab of white paint onn the triangular pointer.

 

hey guys for what its worth i have been using a dab of " WHITE OUT" for years for timing marks. something in the stuff really makes it work well with the light and once it dries its there to stay for quick tunes in the future. it also resists oil, grease, degreasers ect.

 

PM= Punto Morto= Dead Point

 

I think the sequence is this:

PM1-4 is TDC
3' is timing at 950rpm retarded
7' is timing at 950rpm main points (answer to your question)
37" is timing at 3,200 or 5000rpm

Check your operator's manual. Ferrari is very good about this.

I would also make sure there is a smooth transition in advance as you increase rpm to make sure the weights are not sticking.

Another note. I think the 3' and 7' refer to distributor advance which is '6 and '14 engine advance; not sure but anyhow you still set to 7'. The 37' is engine advance.

Good luck,

Drew

 

The 37deg is definitely the mark for 5000rpm. It's explained in the owners manual.

FWIW, the 37deg mark should be your biggest concern. A few deg off at idle or mid-range won't hurt anything, but some degree (bad pun) of accuracy at high revs is important. If your advance mechanism is iffy for any reason, adjustments at low revs may not give the correct advance at 5000+.

And, yes, there seems to be a half-zillion different flywheels. Mine doesn't agree with the manual either.