This isn't a reply, but a plead for information: I am a 64 yo newbie to Ferrari ownership. I've searched for information about the subject, and perhaps I am searching incorrectly about the subject of oil availabilty. I purchased a triple black 03 360 F1 March of 06, with 5300 miles. I've driven it about 450 miles, and the dip stk marked oil at the end (below the lowest add mark) with the engine running and warm. Two things, did I check it correctly, and is it normal under "normal" use for it to be low at this mileage? I found a body shop in the Los Angeles outskirts whose owner said he had one qt and wanted $50. Clearly, I didn't buy it. I understand that the correct price is closer to $16. So I just parked the car for a couple of days until I could locate the oil. I decided to just have an oil service done (plus all fluids and belts), took a sample of the oil, and the service tech charged me the $16 per qt for four extra qt to have at home. Anyone know where to send the oil sample? I want to check for metal and pH and moisture. Anyone have a stock Ferrari Becker CD radio to sell? Thanks for any info. Rudy Gaytan [email protected]
Hello Rudolph, sorry, can`t help or answer your question; but I`m sure the SoCal gents will help you. Just wanted to say "HELLO" and a very warm welcome at ferrarichat.com. First post and already Rossa Subscribed and showing up with a serious tec. question. Thats the way! Enjoy your triple black 360 F1 (take care of NNO) and fchat. Best Wolfgang
Everything you want to know about oil is here: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi If I was a quart low on the go I might just throw in a bottle of 0W-40 Mobil 1. No problem with that. You may actually use it all the time. Look me up. I used 0W-20 in my Maranello. Look at my articles here: Top of the list- http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=4 aehaas
First of all don't waste your money (or Engine) on Shell oil. Use Redline or Mobil 1 and you will be fine and it does not void your warranty. To check oil bring car up to operating temp and then shut off, check oil immediately after shutting off. it is normal for Ferrari's to use a little oil and I believe the owners manual says up to a quart every 500 miles but I wouldn't expect that much. Hope that helps
I use Mobil 1 in my Maranello ....... next time you change oil, switch over ..... Shell is hard to get and way too expensive.
I just (today!) switched to Mobil 1 5W-40 from Shell. Half the price and no need to (a) buy from dealer or (b) buy in wholesale quantities from distributor. Four miles and no problems whatsoever.
Many on this list are using Mobil 1 0w-40. Works for me....I've never seen Mobil 1 5w-40...where are you guys getting that? I would think the 0w-40 would be preferred...but that's just my AEHass "brain washing" I have had....or should I say "re-education"?
Diverging slightly...... I usually get Mobil 1 at Wal Mart ($21 for a 5 quart jug) is there anyplace cheaper?
I been using Shell Helix in my 325 for the last 5 years. My car runs great ! You can get Helix in several places. One is at the Auto Gallery in Woodland Hills. The Helix is definately great stuff even though It is over-priced. Mobil 1 is certainly a good choice, but I must admit I like the Helix. Regards, Stew
Shell Helix Ultra has the lowest flash point. Lower than even most of the 5W-20 wt. oils. This contributes to much higher levels of evaporation. The other 40 wt. oils have much higher flash points and probably less evaporation. This is why I shy away from the Shell oils. Also, they do not publish their actual Noack evaporative rates at all. The 5W-40 Helix Ultra has a flash point of 206 C whereas the 5W-20 Pennzoil plain multi-grade dino oil has a flash point of 229 C for example. Red Line 5W-20 has a flash point of 256 C. The evaporation is very very low with this oil. aehaas
Great responses. I appreciate it. During my futile search for the Shell Helix, I thought I would just get Mobil 1 to top off the needed liter. Several mechanics suggested I don't mix the oils. Since my 03 360 is just a few weeks old to me, and I couldn't verify the last oil change, I just had it changed and continued with Helix. I also didn't check the oil level the day I purchased it, so I cannot tell how many miles it was driven to consume that missing liter. My independent mechanic uses and recommends Shell Helix. Says it has certain hydraulic properties that the others don't have. I thought it wise to follow his suggestion, until I become better informed. Thanks for all the info and technical responses.
If I recall from the 360 manual (I had a 2000), you are supposed to check the oil with the engine up to temp and running. -steve
FWIW, I sell Helix. (but not very much of it!) http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=261349
I bought 5 gallons of Shell Spirax for my Alfas through the local Shell jobber. They delivered it free to my front door. Look online for Shell oil product distributors or in the yellow pages. They're everywhere. Andrew Watry
On older cars, perhaps. But the newer models use the oil as hydraulic fluid in the self-adjusting valves. I've often wondered if some of the issues with early 355s weren't due to people replacing their 5W40 Helix with 20W50 oils, thinking "heavier is better". At one point, Helix 5W40 looked like a good all-year oil for my turbo Celica. Local Shell dealers lost the ability to speak English when I asked them about it. I used to worry a lot about what oil to use. Then I discovered how often oil companies change the formulation of their oils. What's good today may be recalled tomorrow. It's a consumable. Be careful replacing mineral with full synth, and keep around the same grade, and don't lose sleep over it. (That's what the oil company chemists are paid for. )
"But the newer models use the oil as hydraulic fluid in the self-adjusting valves." Oil use in "self adjusting valves" is viscosity independent. Ref: SAE Automative Handbook, current edition. This of course makes sense. A 5W-40 has a viscosity of approx. 100 (or more) at 75 F and 14 at 200 F and 3 cS at 300 F as in a hot racing engine. At cold temperatures the same oil will have a viscosity of 500 cS or more. aehaas
Either procedure can be used and you will get the a good reading, the 360 was modified I belive due to the foaming while running and thus it was hard to get a clear reading on the dip stick. The key with modified version is to check it immedately after shutting the engine off.
