ZMAX in a 365

Discussion in 'Vintage (thru 365 GTC4)' started by straightpipe, Dec 4, 2009.

  1. straightpipe

    straightpipe Karting
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    Apr 23, 2007
    West Chester, PA
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    What's your opinion of using ZMAX in a 365. I saw the adds on SPEED and thought it might be worth trying.
    I've never used oil additives but now that the automotive police are mandating the removal of zinc, I'm going to add 8 oz. of ZDDP to help reduce primary wear. I've been looking for this fix that Bill Muno, Central States, published in The Prancing Horse. The ZMAX appears to have good wear properties. I considered adding it along with the ZDDP unless there is a good reason not to.

    Thanks for any input.
  2. El Wayne

    El Wayne Global Moderator
    Global Moderator Owner

    Aug 1, 2002
    San Marino, CA
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    L. Wayne Ausbrooks
    You'll probably get a better response in the appropriate model-specific forum. Thread moved.
  3. straightpipe

    straightpipe Karting
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    Apr 23, 2007
    West Chester, PA
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    I did some research before using ZMAX and it's a product you do not want to use according to the FTC. "The agency alleges that enhanced performance claims for the product are unsubstantiated, that tests cited to support performance claims actually demonstrated that motor oil treated with zMax produced more than twice as much bearing corrosion than motor oil alone, and that the three different products - an engine additive, a fuel line additive and a transmission additive - were all actually tinted mineral oil."
  4. Jack-the-lad

    Jack-the-lad Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Jun 22, 2004
    Isle of Luci
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    Hey, if Carroll Shelby endorses it, it HAS to be good...right?

  5. Bob Zambelli

    Bob Zambelli F1 Rookie
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    Nov 3, 2003
    Manning, SC
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    Robert G. Zambelli
    When I had my repair business, many of my customers asked which oil additives I recommended. Always the same answer - NONE.

    The modern lubricants are so well formulated that I really see no need to put additional ingredients in them.

    When you come right down to it, there is little difference in the engine technologies - thin shell crank and rod bearings, bare aluminum cam journals, cylinder walls, whether in a Ferrari, Toyota or a 65 Ford, they all operate on the same principle - a pressurized or splashed oil film between the moving surfaces. When the oil is properly formulated with the right shear and temperature properties, detergents and viscosity stabilizers, it will do the job on its own. I have been in the pits and setup areas in a number of Gran Prix races and I remember mechanics opening plastic bottles of Valvoline, Penzoil, Kendall and others and pouring them right into the Formula one engines. The same oil you buy at Auto Zone or Walmart. I never saw and additive being used.

    I have tested just about every brand of oil in my 330GTC over the last 120,000 miles and I have never experienced a lubrication issue. When I removed the cylinder head to replace some valves, the cam journals were like new. Keep in mind that I drive my car often and hard.

    I prefer Kendall 20W50 GT1 oil simply because it seems to last longer in the older and looser engines. The consumption in my GTC was cut in half when I switched from Valvoline to Kendall.

    I use it in my 330, ALFAs, FIAT and motorcycle. Also, when I was driving Porsches, it was the oil of choice. Same for the Formula Ford engines I built.

    Some people are concerned about primary wear in that the oil pressure is slow to come up after starting the older V-12s. This is simply because the oil pressure takeoff is at the very end of the circuit, on the back of the left hand camshaft. It takes time for the oil to arrive but all the bearing surfaces are still covered with a residual film of oil.

    To address the issue of warmup. When my 330 engine starts, I fast idle it for about 30 seconds after the oil pressure comes up and then drive off.

    Bob Z.

    ps - If you really have a thing for additives, put a bottle of Gumout in your fuel tank every four or five fillups. If you store it for long periods, some Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel won't hurt.
  6. ColdWater

    ColdWater Formula Junior

    Aug 19, 2006
    bicoastal USA
    Agree with the foregoing, except that Kendall GT1 now is not the same as what built its reputation in the past. The Kendall name was sold to Chevron Philipps a few years ago and GT1 is now a low-zinc Chevron-produced oil suitable for catalyst-equipped late-model cars. The old 'green' GT1 was produced in the Bradford PA refinery that now produces Brad Penn oils under different ownership. Brad Penn oils claim to be specifically formulated for older cars, with high levels of ZDDP. Unlike high-ZDDP racing oils that some use today, Brad Penn also has detergents that are important for usage on the street rather than the track. I have no connection to Brad Penn, other than using their products and liking them.
  7. cdu

    cdu Karting

    May 30, 2007
    #7 cdu, Dec 10, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2009
    Modern oils don't have the as much (or any) zinc/phosphorus/zddp in them as older oil formulations because it fouls catalytic converters and O2 sensors.

    Modern valve trains are designed to run just fine with this sort of oil. Older motors may not have been designed with these low zddp lubricants in mind, so it may be worth while to use a high zddp oil or use an additive.

    I wouldn't trust something like zmax, or anything else advertised on TV. You may want to have an oil with more ZDDP than is allowed by API certification. If that is the case, buy an oil that isn't API certified but is made by a reputable company, such as a Mobil 1 "Racing" oil, or get a ZDDP additive that is explicitly and *only* a ZDDP additive.

    And, as with anything oil related, lots of people have lots of opinions and there are lots of scams.

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