Headlight (aka: Column, Cluster) Switch & Switch Stalk Repair

What would you do if the internals of your headlight switch shattered?

Michael Collins (Singapore,China) contacted me a while back & asked if I could repair his badly broken 308 headlight switch. He'd tried epoxying it a couple of times, but it kept on disentigrating.

Here's what it looked like when he FedExed it to Unobtainium Supply Co. (48hrs Singapore to Massachusetts!):
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In case you're wondering, Of course I assured Michael that Unobtainium Supply could fix his stalk.

The following pix were taken after the new end had been cast on the stalk & cured overnight @40psi.
1st pic: Mold halves separated, still a fair amount of paper thin flash hanging off of the new end
2nd pic: Bottom side of switch end after removal from mold & trimming flash.
3rd pic: Top side of switch end.

STRENGTHENING MODIFICATIONS:
If you look closely, you can see the following design mods I made to strengthen the new switch end:
1)The new end has a solid arm connecting the contact holder area to the larger portion of the end. The original end had a slot down the center of the arm.
2) The inside of the intersection of the arm and the contact holder is now radiused instead of a right angle. Should significantly transfer stress better.
3) The top of the arm now extends well over onto the top of the contact holder.
4) The mold halves
I do have to admit that It took 6 trys before I was able to get a solid casting. (Well, the 1st try was good also, but I sliced it trimming off flashing!! Almost cried.)
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Michael, thanks for the kind words. Glad to have a satisfied customer!

Actually, it's two different colored catalysts for the same base RTV. The green catalyst produces a somewhat more rigid rubber. I wanted this for the base so it would be less likely to deform when the top was pressed into it squishing the casting compound into all the nooks & crannys.

The color differentiation also makes it easier to separate the two mold halves the first time after curing the 2nd half on top of the original half. Sometimes the parting compound doesn't work perfectly & the two bond together in places. Then you have to carefully separate the sections with a razor blade & Xacto knife. Having contrasting colors lets you see immediately when you're not following the original parting line.

Price for molding a new end on a headlight stalk, generally cleaning the stalk, polishing the knob & cleaning the lettering: $135 + shipping due upon acceptance of the repaired part.

Anyone know how to redo the lettering & icons on knobs?

My experience with the lettering & icons is that cleaning them really brightens them up, but often also reveals that they've worn thin or even thru in places.

I'm still trying to come up with a process for renewing the lettering & icons. If the original lettering was hot-stamped nice & deep then the markings can be filled in using a flow pencil. However, most of the knobs I've seen don't have deep enough markings to make it economical to attempt to touch them up. Spent 8 hours re-lettering a knob for one customer, & they still didn't meet my standards.

BTW, I've started on the mold for the bonnet & boot latch lever housings. Expect to have parts by the end of the month.

 

Just a quick update:

I now have tooling to make replacement contacts (see picture) for the Vitalloni column switch used on Mondials, 3x8s, 400 series, & others.

The tools are a bit crude,however, I gained a lot of machining experience[1] while making them & they do the job. All in all It took me roughly 35 or 40 hours to come up with the first pair of usable contacts. Still takes about an hour to start with a sheet of brass & produce a contact.

[1]Experience is what you get when things don't turn out the way you intended.
;^)

The new contacts are more rugged, & should have less electrical resistance than the OEM ones. They are made from a heavier brass, & I lap the contact surface on a diamond honing stone to ensure they fit flat against the mating pieces.
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See my post dated 02-05-2005, 06:51 PM in the middle of this thread:

84 308 black plastic escutcheon around trunk latch

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7618&page=2&pp=20&highlight=latch+housing

 

FYI:
I can now offer repair service on 330GTC & other classic Ferrari column switches.

I have just finished servicing a 330 GTC column switch, including reconstructing a broken turn signal (aka indicator) stalk. Had to re-sculpt the broken off end & make a mold from the reconstructed end. (See attached pix).

While I had it apart, I made molds of the knobs, wiper & headlight stalks.


BTW, turns out that the Maserati Bora used the same switch mechanism & knobs as the 308 series. Just that the stalk rod length & bends are quite different. Bottom line is that I can repair them using my 3x8 stalk molds.
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OK, I'll double what you owe me for that little emergency repair.

Hmm, What time was it when we finally finished & you headed for home ? 2:30 AM? Ought to add another 50% for overtime(Heheh).

 

Yes, here it is:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=135495946#post135495946

 

I've just received a column switch with a big boss broken off of the main switch body, thought you might want to follow the repair sequence. Attached is a picture of the broken switch, and of a good switch.

I've come up with several repair alternatives in rough order of estimated repair cost:

a) Cast a replacement boss onto the existing body using fibreglass reinforced polyurethante & a silicone putty mold made from my good switch.

b) Machine a replacement boss out of delrin, or Aluminum & fasten it in place.

c) Strip my good switch & make a mold of the main body. Then cast a new body.

d) Locate a damaged used switch & combine the 2.

I'm planning on starting with trying a) this weekend.
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For those who asked how this came out, here are the pics of the successful repair:
- Making a mold from a good switch w/purple RTV putty
- The newly made mold
- Drilling holes in broken surface
- Etched steel wire 'rebar' partially installed in holes
- Mold in place ready for the pour
- The newly cast boss ready for cleanup & re-assembly.

The repaired switch has been in use for over a month now, with no problems!!!!
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Hello,
I recently repaired a 330 GT headlight stalk. The owner has posted a nice description of what was done, & a picture to his 330 GT restoration site. It's down at the end of the page:

http://www.parrotbyte.com/kbc/ferrari/head_light_stalk.htm

He's got quite a write-up on his 20+ year long 330 GT restoration project:

http://www.parrotbyte.com/kbc/ferrari/330GT.htm