Hi Everyone, My car started having intermittent starting problems. Instead of starting on the first turn of the key, it would take a few tries. With only a click being audible on the failed attempts. I checked my connections at the battery. All clean and tight. So I now want to check if I have a loose connection at the starter. The heat shield blocks access. If I remove the rear firewall, will I be able to access the wire connection on the starter? Or will the heat shield still block access? Thanks for any advice, Manny
I didn't see you list checking the ground connection. They can come loose or break. Since I've been spanked by faulty grounds in the past, I ran a large wire from the ground terminal by the battery directly to the block.
If you have an original starter it could be the contacts in the starter solenoid. I put a NOS solenoid on my starter and it turned over like a dream. Usually the big copper contact points get pitted and burned a bit so the large amount of current needed can't get to the starter. You can disassemble and repair the solenoid. Here is a dandy write up by Pshoejberg: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/repairing-246-starter-motor.444350/#post-143060785
I have a reduction gear starter. But will I be able to get to the starter from the trunk just to check the wiring?
Manny, the starter can be removed after the back fiber glass panel is unscrewed and removed. From memory it’s a challenge to get out with the exhaust manifold in place. The symptoms you describe sound similar to those I had. I replaced the solenoid Which appears to have solved the issue. See post 18 in https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/removal-and-instalation-of-engine.226569/ More discussion on starter issues here https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/starter-advice.150281/page-2#post-139019510 Kevin
Agree with Kevin above, except that in my car - with gear reduction starter - it is not difficult to access the starter. I recently replaced my starter, and once the panel in the trunk was removed, it was fairly easy to remove and reinstall the starter. The gear reduction starters are smaller and easier than the stock version to remove. But before attacking the starter, make sure to check the ignition switch. The contact in that switch is taking a terrible beating every time you turn the key (arcing, high current, etc.). When you have a bad contact there, you normally do not hear a click as you describe, but it is still worth testing it by bypassing the switch with jumper wires or an external pushbutton switch. Lars
Yes and possibly Yes. Yes you can remove the rear panel and Yes the heat shield will still be in your way. Tough to lift ancient Marellli Starter but if you already have a Gear Reduction then possibly just remove the mounting bolts from the access in the left wheel well and that smaller unit might remove to the left and then out. Watch your back no matter how you do it. Also, it depends on if you have a EU or USA version. The USA is definitely harder with emissions manifold blocks as they can block access to mounting nuts and space. I removed the manifold in this DIY, it was only 9 nuts (3 at exhaust connection, 6 for cyls 1-3) that needed to be removed Here is how I did it with photos https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/dino-diy-replacing-the-starter-with-a-gear-reduction-unit.265858/ BTW, the OEM access panel appears to have been originally rivetted in place so that rear access panel in under the carpet should have rivets, but I've seen prior owners replace it using sheet metal screws making return visits easier. Use a strong ahesive like 3M 90 to re-attach the carpet after snapping on
If I re-read your question correctly, you just want to put an Voltmeter on the thick 00 gauge power line going into the starter and measure how many volts are appearing at the starter, correct? That would confirm all upstream are providing voltage and rule them out, leaving the starter as suspect. Good plan. You can remove the Left rear wheel/wheel well and access pick off points at starter main power in and at solenoid, then do a measurement. Like the alternator, the starter is clustered low and in a heated environment which is bad for electrics.
You're stuck. Those manifold blocks are in the way and if yours is like 05702 then you will have to take two manifold studs out of exhaust cylinder #2 to allow the starter to move back from the mounting hole. Photo attached showing that manifold block for cyl #2 exhaust is not able to slide out and was the cause of not permitting the starter to slide away from the flywheel hole. TIP: to remove any mounting stud, simply screw two nuts onto that stud, tighten them against each other firmly then that will bind and jam them onto the stud. Rotate the lower nut with wrench CCW and the stud will remove by unscrewing outward. Take care to remove it straight out and not damage the casting. The again, if you just wanted to access the solenoid, that simplifies things considerably Image Unavailable, Please Login
Corbani had a write up about your situation that is worth a look: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/dino-saga-050911-_-ignition-switch-alternator-regulator-starter-flasher.74532/
SHE LIVES!!! I went for the easy check first which was the ground from the battery. It turned maybe 1/8th of a turn. I got in and started her up on the first crank. And I tried starting her a few more times. Thanks to all of you for your advice...especially Ken. But I can't be 100% sure yet because a few days ago, my mechanic suggested I check the battery. I tightened both terminals less than 1/8th of a turn and my car started and ran like normal for a few days. Then the issue returned. Unfortunately, I didn't think to try starting my car before diving into checking things. So I won't know for sure for awhile. But again, my sincerest thanks to all of you.
Have we confirmed the battery is actually good? A battery can read full or seem full on a static test but can also be inconsistent when but under load. Before the car gets torn apart start with the battery.
I had similar trouble with my Dino a few years ago now,John Corbani advised me to put in the biggest cranking amp battery that would fit which I did no more starting problems after that,check your battery before you start getting to involved with other things good luck. Cheers
Car didn't start today and the battery tested good and fully charged. So onto the starter and solenoid. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk