328 driving me insane

You don't say whether plugs are firing. Get a spare spark plug and attach it to one of the leads on rear bank. Ground plug on engine and crank to see if you are getting a spark at plug. You can lay plug on block or you can attach a battery jumper cable to its body and attach the other jumper end to engine block. If it does not start and you see a spark, then it's probably fuel related.

 

Check fuse #9?

 

Check your crank sensor connections, or the sensors themselves with an ohm meter when the car does not want to start. You may have one one its way out.

 

Matt:

Like others have indicated, you should verify the basics first: fuel and ignition.
After all that cranking can you smell fuel? Try removing the cold start injector from the plenum and seeing if it squirts fuel when cold.

There are Technical Bulletins describing how to test the Ignition and FI systems. I you have a simple multimeter you can do the tests.
There is a free copy posted here http://ferrari.cdyn.com/ or specifically here http://ferrari.cdyn.com/ferrari_docs/328_bulletins.pdf

The pages regarding the Ignition and FI tests are at the end from page 129-147.

I have done them and it really does not take too long. Just print them out & record the data one by one.
Note: on my 328, I get either open or a short (can't remember which)on one of the flywheel sensors, but the car runs fine and the tach works fine too?

Good luck,

Mark

 

If it runs once it's running -- pulling the "blue plug" checks that the AFM safety switch will keep the fuel pump running.

But when you're starting, the fuel pump gets power from the start switch ... through fuse #9.

Once the engine starts sucking air, the safety switch trips and the pump stays on until the AFM plate returns to rest.

But to get it started in the first place, you have to get power from the starter switch to the fuel pump relay.

Check fuse #9.

 

Do you have a security system that includes an ignition cutoff? I had one and I was getting the same symptoms as you. Once the system was disabled (and it was so flaky it once set off the car alarm after the engine had been started and was running), the problem went away.

 

This may be as simple as tightening your battery terminals. I had an intermittent non start on my 328 when I got it. After cleaning and tightening the terminals, it never happened again (now going on 5 years). They looked fine, but were not.

Good luck,
Dave

 

You really need to isolate the problem as either ignition or fuel. Have you checked for spark at the plugs when you are cranking it? I have a simple little device that flashes when a charge is sent down the plug wires, but an inductive timing light would do just as well. Another way would be to ground an extra spark plug to the head and hook one plug wire up to it to see if it sparks.

A simple test on the fuel side is to remove the blue safety switch connector from the fuel distributor. Make sure you hear the fuel pump running every time before you try to crank the car. This will help identify wiring, fuse box, or relay problems. It doesn't hurt to leave the connector off, no fuel will go through the injectors anyway until the AFM plate is pulled down by vacuum.

In any event, determining if you do or don't have spark first will go a long way to helping us guide you through the proper testing procedures.

 

HI Matt,

I had a similar problem, traced the circuits all over the place etc and could never find the fault, I think you should check the connectors in the passenger's foot well... its under the carpet, comes out with like 4 screws... there are a number of connections down there.. mine was a cracked wire coming out of the connector... so pulled it out and just crimped a new one in place.... and its been so reliable... if your relays are clicking then I would think you have a faulty wire or connection some place... especially if someone has removed some form of alarm ... most of the time the alarm electrics are behind the foot well... its also where the door buzzer is located. the connector is attached to the bulkhead on the right.... its best to look when you have the car running, then from giggling the wires I was able to simulate the non start... the car would die, and only restart when I held one of the connectors ... be carefull... there is a lot of juice down there...

There is a schematic in the drivers manual... its tiny to see, but I believe the starting circuit is the last one on the bottom... white and green stripe with purple line... I think... I would bet that at some point someone has either cut or spliced this wire to fit in the alarm... Just a hunch, but seems logical to me!

send me a pvt message if you need further help.

 

It's your ignition switch, time for a new one.

regards

Rocco

 

I vote with rocco. or in that circuit. Prove it to yourself and by pass the ignition system byt hot wiring the car via starting with a remote starter at the +12v and solinoid start terminal. If it fires it is in the ignition circuit since the 328 is Kjet if memory serves me right

 

If the starter motor cranks the engine over, but it won't start ...

I had the loose battery terminal on mine, as dave(hardtop) mentioned -- the engine would crank, but it wouldn't start -- but I'd see the dash lights dim.

Differences between starting and running: Battery power versus alt. Starter motor. Fuel pump starter circuit.

If your battery can pump 12v into your running lights with the car off, then that should be okay. (You might check for a dirty battery disconect contact.)

If the starter motor is running, then that should be okay.

Fuel pump starter circuit. When you turn the key on, the "ignition services" relay (u) clicks, and relay (s) should click as well. Power from the start position of the key switch runs through fuse 9 and relay (s) to activate relay (r), supplying power to the fuel pump (and other things). When the AFM plate is displaced, the safety switch opens, and relay (s) deactivates, causing power from relay (u) to run to relay (r), through the open throw contact of relay (s), keeping the pump running. If the engine stalls, the AFM switch grounds, relay (s) activates, and relay (r) deactivates until you hit the starter position again.

Relay (r) should click when you turn the key to "Avv" (start). That might be hard to tell with the starter motor making noise. Look for +12v at fuse 9 when the ignition key is at "start" (and only then). (There are openings on the ends of the fuses where you can stick a meter probe, because there should always be 0.00v across a good fuse. So checking voltage from a fuse to ground is easier than trying to look at relay contacts.)

Or you could try starting with the AFM safety switch "blue connector" off. (Have to be quick about that, because running the pump with a non-running car can flood the intakes, keeping it from starting. CIS: continuous injection system -- when the pump is on, fuel is being pumped to the intakes.)

Of course, this is based on a US model wiring diagram.

So the basic advice given by others is probably sound: Check for spark to see if it's spark or fuel. I don't think it gets spark any differently when starting than when running, but that's for a US model.

On the other hand, if you just had re-wiring done on the car (to remove the immobilizer), you may need to trace circuits to compare with the wiring diagram -- the shop may have gotten something wrong. If this problem started when the work was done, I'd say it's the shop's issue to fix.

 

There is a known problem with 328's that I don't think was mentioned in the above posts. It has to do with the connector to the fuse/relay panel. Mine had the problem and it did what yours is doing - won't start. It is because there is too much current going to the fuel pump. The connector can't handle it and gets fouled up from arcing.
If you look at the fuse panel, it is the connector on the left side. It is like the 2nd or 3rd wire up from the bottom. Basically just pull the connector off the board and look for blackened areas.
So if when it doesn't start, you have voltage at the fuel relay, then your ignition switch is ok. Next best thing is connect your multimeter to the fuel pump and see if it has voltage. If not check the wiring connectors in between.
If you have voltage at the pump, feel/listen to see if the pump is pumping, if not, obviously the pump, replace it.
But of course it could also be ignition - so I agree to first determine which one it is.

It was always fun when I stopped to get gas and the car wouldn't start. I had to unscrew the fuse cover and wiggle the wire. Very embarassing sitting there cranking the car and it not starting.

 

not true....at least, not if the fuel distributor is working correctly and injectors aren't leaking.

unless the metering plate in the fuel distributor is pushed down (by airflow or otherwise), the fuel pressure at the injector is not high enough to squirt the injector.

you can run the fuel pump all day and nothing will come out the injectors.

 

I agree, I had the same problem and believe i mentioned it on the other page... but no big deal... I would look here... seems to be a weak spot...