t/o bearing 348 ???????????

I am told (although I cannot confirm this) that the following parts can be used to rebuild the assembly. I think I got this info from ferrariforum.net, but I cannot get on the site now.

Bearing SKF 6011-2Z/C4 HT22
Seal JF4 28 A
Seal JF4 32 A
Seal 40/50/5/8

I would sure like to get hold of a worn-out T/O assembly to give it a try.

Chris.

 

The one thing with the updated bearing and slave is the fact the the newer one is not quite as robust as the older unit. I have seen the updated units split along the seams and loose all clutch fluid. The cast ones never do this..but the rubber seals (which are available sepratly) leak. I do remember sombody around my aera that had a source of just the bearing assembly and is using them with sucsess. How he is refastening the bearing back on the slave I do not know, because the cover is crimpped on.\

Just one small thing if you haven't done so. On the top of the shaft portion of the assmebly, were the stopped is bolted, you will see 2 small holes. The kit should have come with a piece of what looks like threaded rod. Thead this into one hole tighten down and the cut the threaded rod, so about 2-3mm remains, then just peen it over with a hammer to mushroom it almost like the original unit. Do the same for the other side.

 

The aluminium crush rod that Tom talks about is part of the kit. It may not be available separately but this hole in the shaft assembly is a standard metric size and you can just screw a bolt in there and locktite it. The 348 T/O system has been changed about 3 times. The original bearing and original shaft are not the same size as the latest shaft and bearing which is also the same one in the 355. The seals are not available for the old one unless someone sourced it from sombody. I do not know if the latest bearing assmebly has replaceable seals. If so someone please post about that or if an aftermarket source is available. To answer the original question if the shaft is not damaged and it fits the new seals use it. There should be no problem.

 

Luuk, I am in the process of rebuilding a 246 engine and transaxel. All the bearings were purchased at Napa and another auto supplier. I wouldn't accept any chinese bearings only SKF or Quality Japanese units. I always wash out every bearing with solvent and repack with marine moly grease. Any bearing that is exposed to motor oil or gear lube gets a light coating of that lube. My throw out bearing (used but in good shape) Was treated to this process. I was able to wash out and dry with air, however the seal prevented me from injecting via needle the moly grease, so I drilled a small hole in the metal seal, filled the bearing and plugged the hole with a sharpened Q-tip piece. I just don't trust any other way.
It looks like your throwout bearing support shaft is in excellent shape and I would not hesitate using it. I would try to give your new bearing this treatment. It will greatly extent its usable life. I have done this process for years on all types of bearings and have never lost one. Hope this helps.

Gary

 

The o-rings on the slave cylinder can be bought seperately, I bought them for mine and listed the parts on a thread for the 3 different types of T/O Bearings that have been updated.

On a side note, what damage is caused by a bad or going bad T/O bearing?

What are the syptoms of a bad T/O bearing? Only ask because I get a rrrrrrrr'ing noise when clutch is not engage...It disappears when the clutch is engaged...Im thinking that might be the culprit.

 

or your clutch shaft ringnut can be coming loose and that will screw your gearbox. I saw that on 2 348 GB's I fixed and couple rumored back in the 348 challenge days. Try to listen for the sound with a stethescope. If it gets louder right in the area of the clutch slave inlet pipe on the GB you need to get an acurate diagnosis from a knowledgeable Ferari tech. If it is more on the Bellhouse it could be T/o bearing or bad presureplate fingers rattling.

 

This is the exact opposite of mine...Mine does it upon release of the clutch pedal. When you push it in it goes away...Its not that loud...You have to point it out to someone for them to hear it...but once you point it out...it is easily heard.

Fatbillybob...where is the location of the clutch shaft nut that you speak of...If it is loose, can you tell? Also, do you know what the torque spec on it is.
I am going to take the car to FOA...let them diagnose it...but i like to be armed with info.

 

See Luyk's pics the shaft nut is directly behind the engine side of the T/O bearing assembmy in the picture. check for noise with stethescope first, then Check the T/o bearing , luyk is right, then if you still get noise here you pull the clutch shaft right out of the Bell house with a slide hammer and a special tool after removing the T/O bearing assembly pictured. If you get that far let me know and I'll send you a pic of my homemade tool to do this job.