More thoughts on jack stands / jack procedure for 308? | FerrariChat

More thoughts on jack stands / jack procedure for 308?

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Mike328, Jan 7, 2004.

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  1. Mike328

    Mike328 F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed

    Oct 19, 2002
    Boulder, CO
    Full Name:
    I've finally picked up some jack stands for the 308. (Sears Craftsman Professional, 6000lb.)

    I've done a fair amount of research about jack procedures and jack stands... One helpful thread I came up with was here, in the archives of the old

    In this thread, Bill Sebestyen (Bill308) outlines his jacking procedure and provides a diagram (all shown below).

    Does anybody have any objections to this? It involves two jack stands in the rear and one in the front.

    Bill writes,

    "I think you may eventually damage the sway bar bushings if you support the car with jack stands at these points. The following diagram shows how I support my 308 on 3-jack stands which also compenates for any reasonable floor irregularities."


    "In practice, the car is driven up onto some 2 x 6's to gain an extra 1 1/2 inches of floor clearance. A 4 ft 2 x 6 is placed on the floor jack platten and the outboard ends are placed under the longtudinal frame rails to spread the lifting load. The entire rear end is lifted at onec with the jack positioned at the red 1 of the diagram. When lifted high enough, jack stands are placed under the rear frame, with small wood blocks between the jack stands and the frame, at the positions indicated by the magenta circles. The jack is released and the rear of the car is allowed to settle onto the jack stands. The jack is repositioned under the front frame at the intersection of several frame members indicated by the red 2 and the entire front is lifted. A single jack stand, with a cushioning wooden block is positioned under the front frame, at the remaing magenta circle, where it won't damage the underbody panels. I suspect your 328 is similar enough to my 308 that you will have corresponding support positions."
  2. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    The frame cross-member (1) is not an oval tubular member, it's only a fairly weak U-channel. I've seen a couple of them that have been bowed by lifting with a jack as described below. Once bowed, your rear end is out of alignment & you've got big problems as it's very hard to apply force to straighten it.

    If you have to use a cross-member, use the tubular one between the two rear jacking points shown as purple circles.

    I'm not sure whether or not a 2x6 is sufficiently rigid to safely transfer the load from (1) to the longitudinal tubes so that the U-channel crossmember is protected. I'd be a lot more comfortable with a 4x4, or a 2 or 3 inch AL or steel I-beam.

    I prefer a 4-stand setup. with the 2 rear stands as shown on the jacking points, and the 2 front stands at either (2), or else somewhere along the diagonal tubular members coming in to (2). I use the same points with my lift.

    I haven't taken a close look at the cross-member being used for the single forward jack stand. I suspect it's another oval tubular member, so should be sufficiently strong.
  3. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    Land of Slugs & Moss
    Full Name:
    Han Solo
    I use two hydraulic jacks simultaniously to lift the rear of the car, positioned under the oval tubes at the axle centerlines. Jackstands at the two forward positions as shown in the diagram and one under the rear cross member LIGHTLY LOADED.

    I jack the front using the central location as shown in the diagram and place two jackstands under the forward frame rails, just aft of the axle centerlines, shimming with 1/4" plywood at all locations as required.

    '78 GTS

  4. pma1010

    pma1010 F1 Rookie

    Jul 21, 2002
    Full Name:

    I use all 4 jackstands with 2 at the front (although invariably there is more weight on one than the other) and some larger ones at the rear. Positioning of the rears is similar to the diagram. Fronts are on the rails about inline with the middle of the a-arms. I do jack the front from the position shown.

    FYI, The rear stands are Snap-On's and have a long saddle (7 or 8 inches I'd guess) and a wide base so that if something moves the car can, in the extreme, slide on the stand without anything becoming unbalanced. By contrast the fronts, an earlier pair of Craftsman's, have a much smaller saddle (about 4 inches) and narrower base and these can tilt alarmingly when lowering the car if sufficient care isn't taken.

    I find the alignment of the casters on the jack itself to be important as this impacts the way the base of the jack will move as the car is raised or lowered and therefore the direction (and amount) of lateral force that's applied.

  5. peajay

    peajay Formula Junior

    Apr 17, 2002
    near Paris, France
    Full Name:
    I wouldn't be at all comfortable with only one stand at the front, load would probably be OK, but I cannot imagine that it would be very stable.

    I am seriously thinking of digging a 4 feet deep pit in my garage floor to get access to the underside but I am using 4 axle stands in the meantime.
  6. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran

    Feb 24, 2002
    Ventura, California
    Full Name:
    Robert Garven
    I bought some really nice metal low clearance ramps from Sportys tool shop. I drive carefully up on the front ramps till I touch the stops.

    I then jack up the car from either side using two hydraulic jacks at the recommended jack spots on the outside frame tube till the car is level. I position heavy duty jack stands with poly pads on the main large oval frame tubes near the axle center line in the rear. If I need to remove the front wheels I take off the front access panel and jack the car up at the area where the frame is strongest (again from either side) and then put the front heavy duty jack stands with poly pad on the square main frame rails. This is where the ramps from sporty's come in handy the have a section that slides into the main housing so you can slide a floor jack in there. Because I am worried that the car may fall off in an earthquake, when I am not working on it I have 4 smaller stands which I place at the factory jack spot before the rear wheel and one right behing the front wheel on the outside frame rail just to give it more support at the 4 corners. I wish I had a lift but my garage isn't tall enough.... I am going to do this this week will take some photos if anyone wants.

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