New Cam Pulleys | FerrariChat

New Cam Pulleys

Discussion in '308/328' started by DANCER308, Dec 1, 2017.

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  1. DANCER308

    DANCER308 Formula Junior

    Oct 24, 2009
    935
    KY
    Full Name:
    Dan
    #1 DANCER308, Dec 1, 2017
    Starting my cam pulley replacement. Using pulleys from Derek, they look great. Will be doing this with engine in car. Set the engine and cams at TDC. Using cam shaft locks that I made to prevent anything from moving.(pic) Removed cam shaft end bolts. Bummer, lock tab washers are shot. Found some at Lowes, with a little modification(pic). This is going to be an easy swap thanks to the adjustable cam pulleys. Noticed a little different setup from the OEM stuff. The locking pins are countersunk into the back plate, on my setup the locking pin needs to raised up in order to lock the cam washer and prevent it from turning. Maybe not really needed due to the torque on the cam bolt. But, I would like to still set it up the original way. I made a wire washer to set down into the countersink to keep the locking pin up just enough to catch the cam washer. Then I filed down half of the top of the locking pin to where it was flush with the back plate, perfect fit.(pic) Will continue later today. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
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  2. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    12,662
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    #2 yelcab, Dec 1, 2017
    Infinite cam timing adjustment, way to go....
     
  3. flavioleon

    flavioleon Karting

    Dec 21, 2015
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    Italy
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    Flavio
    #3 flavioleon, Dec 1, 2017
    i'm watching the post with interest ................;)
     
  4. DANCER308

    DANCER308 Formula Junior

    Oct 24, 2009
    935
    KY
    Full Name:
    Dan
    #4 DANCER308, Dec 4, 2017
    Sorry for the duplicate pictures, don't know what happened. Here are the steps I took to complete the cam pulley swaps.

    1. Place cam pulleys on camshafts, pick any hole. I used the clean holes. Leave the four locking screws loose.

    2. Put new orings on the 4 camshaft end bolts. Install bolts just snug not tight.

    3. I started with the rear bank. Put timing belt on drive pulley with pinch clip on the idle/slack side.(pic)

    4. Place belt on left pulley and engage teeth. You may need to rotate cam a little. It’s best if the 4 bolts line up somewhere in the middle of the slots.

    5. Repeat with right pulley.

    6. Place belt around idler. It helps if you compress the idler all the way, tighten idler bolt and loosen the 3 idler bracket nuts.

    7. Retighten bracket nuts and loosen idler, let it slid in against the belt and let it pull all slack out of the belt. The cams will rotate a little. Retighten the idler. The idler will be adjusted later.

    8. Use thread lock on the four bolts in each pulley and tighten.

    9. Repeat process for the front bank.

    10. With everything still locked down, tighten the 4 camshaft bolts and secure the locking tabs.

    11. At this point I removed the 2 camshaft locking tools.

    12. Loosen the idler and rotate the engine, watch the idler. When it moves to the left(on the rear bank), up(on the front bank), retighten the idler.




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  5. Meister

    Meister F1 Veteran
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    Apr 27, 2001
    5,516
    Duluth, MN
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    The Meister
    #5 Meister, Dec 6, 2017
    Who is Derek? Where do yo source these pulleys? Cost? Thanks
     
  6. Meister

    Meister F1 Veteran
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    Apr 27, 2001
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    The Meister
    #6 Meister, Dec 6, 2017
  7. DANCER308

    DANCER308 Formula Junior

    Oct 24, 2009
    935
    KY
    Full Name:
    Dan
    #7 DANCER308, Dec 6, 2017
  8. derekw

    derekw Formula 3
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    Sep 7, 2010
    1,520
    London, UK
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    Derek W
    #8 derekw, Dec 26, 2017
    Glad they fit ok Dan. I kept the cap screws at the "back" of the adjustment slots (as in your first photo) and found holes and tooth mesh that matched that "retarded" position of the caps screws in case they ever come loose (less chance of valves hitting.) I only had to advance a couple of pulleys by a degree or two.

    I also used high temp thread lock on the cap screw threads and flange lock on the flanges to lock them together. The dowel peg can have a little axial play-- doesn't affect anything. Any forces on it will be shear where the cam/pulley holes meet but even those will be zero once the bolt is tight as friction is more than enough when the big bolt is torqued.

    I have a couple of sets left and have a few people who want non-adjustable so might get some made.
    Cheers and safe driving in 2018! Derek
     

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