Happy to share the details Dave, . . . first though, let me give credit where credit is due. The inspiration for this came from Dave Helms at SRI. On the 328, draining the coolant is no elegant task, you have to pull the lower heater hose off of one of the main coolant tubes and then prepare for coolant to dump everywhere. Dave developed an in line petcock drain coupling that makes the task super clean and simple (see the first photo). Following Dave's lead I ended up modifying the coolant block drain plug on my 328 so the entire coolant drain procedure on the car was contained (see second photo). I did something similar with my M5 but used Fumoto valves in the block drain positions as the plug diameters weren't sufficient to accept an aftermarket petcock (see third photo). When I acquired the 355 a couple of years ago I attempted to fit fumoto valves in the block drain positions but there was not enough clearance to thread the valve due to the proximity to the exhaust manifold. I did some research and found a drain valve that would fit without difficulty. It's a Stahlbus Quick Drain Valve (M14 x 1.5 part# SB-210211-S-NA: https://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drain-valve/). Note that both Fumoto and Stahlbus valves were originally designed for oil pan drainage but there are plenty of examples of them being used for coolant drain applications as well. Before placing the Stahlbus valves on the 355 I communicated with Thomas Modlemeier from Stahlbus who stated that it was perfectly acceptable to use the valve in this application. I've had the valves in place on my 355 for approximately 2 years without any difficulties. Full disclosure, there are two downsides of the Stahlbus valve compared to the Fumoto. 1. The Stahlbus utilizes an adapter that fits into the valve to release the fluid so you'll need to keep the adapter it in a safe place and not loose it. I suppose it's not that big of a deal if you misplace the adapter as you can just remove the valve and drain the coolant as you would the standard block plug. 2. The Stahlbus valve is not cheap (around $55 compared to $27 for the Fumoto). I think that about covers it. Please note that I have no financial interest in any of the products listed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
We use a soap for dish washers, low foaming. typically takes 2-3+ times, then we use water 2-3 then distilled 1 time. On the water stages, the hotter the better. Really need a recirculating system to flow through the radiators etc. Obviously the thermostat is removed.
Thanks very much Ettore. I ordered a couple of these and look forward to pain free coolant changes going forward.
There is already a coupling like coolant drain product to not make a mess. I bought five. Decent prices too. Here check this out. It fits 355. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/308-328-coolant-flush-essential-upgrades.530264/page-3#post-145232837
Yep, take a look at the first post in that thread Mitchell. Robert made those up based on my original design for the modified 328 block drain plug referenced in post #26 above. Before marketing those he reached out to me and asked if he could name the thing in my honor which I replied was a nice gesture but not necessary. My only concern with my original modified block drain plug and Robert's reproduction of the same plug is there is no way to lock the petcock in a closed position. While it never happened on my 328, I always worried that petcock drain could slowly open with enough engine vibration. Both the Fumoto and Stahlbus valves have a locking mechanism which prevents the ball valve from opening without deliberate action. I have since replaced my modified 328 block drain plug with the Stahlbus version.
Thanks Ettore for the great information. I am about to do my coolant change and these fittings will be installed to make the future much easier. Dave, I was just trying to help your sales, we know you have a 599 on your mind.
Thanks Ettore for the great information. I am about to do my coolant change and these fittings will be installed to make the future much easier. Dave, I was just trying to help your sales, we know you have a 599 on your mind.
Skipp, the 328 and 355 block drain plugs share the same diameter/thread pitch (M14 x 1.5). As I'm sure you're aware, you need two for the 355 while the 328 only has one block drain plug.
You only need one if you always drain from that one port. I use the one on bank 2. But yes, there are two plugs.
Indeed, on the 355 which ever block drain is opened first will drain the majority of the coolant from the engine. That stated, I have found that there's still a bit of coolant left behind that will drain when you open the second plug. While probably not enough to get excited about, it's there.
Absolutely. I still have coolant in the block of the motor I removed 2 years ago. Would need to suck it out some how
We use Citrol at our shop. Works good on similar things. By schaffers i think. Kinda pricey but you get what you pay for
Sorry I didn't update this. Yes it's was the culprit of the heat exchanger (as usually) repalced with a new one, differetn material and I believe was lighter or heavier than the factory installed? and had to flush the coolant system like 5-6 times, and as well the transmission with Redline (expensive flush). Now all is fine and running smooth!
What year was your r car and hiw many miles when this happened. I just ordered an after market exchanger so I never have this problem so I was just curious. And thank you for the update. It kinda was obvious but the confirmation is nice.
Just rounding prices but about 750 USD I think or at least i hope He quoted canadian dollars. No secret Alex at Daytona. He is guidos friend. I saw Guido quote him on another thread. Looking forword to getting it.
The car is a early '96 or very late 95 (Twin MAF) euro version with 12k kms on the clock. Here are some photos for the comparison. I bought the parts from RicambiAmerica. As I said I can't remember which weighed more, but it was about twice of the other and other material made of the new one. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hummm. That's interesting. The tube size on the one that came out is clearly different. That changes flow rates and back pressure. Not sure it matters much, but my experience with heat exchangers would suggest the one on the right is more efficient than the one on the left.
I may have to dissagree with you. I think based on the pics That the oil has more room between the tubes so heat transfer would be better from it. But just my guess and a differant way to look at things
Sooooo.. More oil with less surface area in contact with the cooling tubes. Right? Heat transfer...hot to cold, cold to hot. More surface area exchange the better. Flow is another consideration and i have issues here as well.
Yes but the big tubes are so close I am thinking very little oil can get between them so the flow is poor and then the heat transfer would be less. I just dont know why they would not leave at least a lttle more room b etween the tubes
