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Who here has pulled their 308 motor?

Discussion in '308/328' started by AZDoug, Jul 8, 2009.

  1. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
    1,435
    Along the Verde , AZ
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    Doug
    I found this thread which was very informative.

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=180683

    Starting to psyche myself up for motor upgrade/overhaul late this summer.

    Any tips or tricks?.

    Why was the bellhousing removed in the above procedure, as the transaxle is coming out anyway?

    Basically, I see

    Remove hood

    Disconnect gasoline and coolant lines

    Remove carbs

    Remove dizzies

    Remove AC compressor.

    disconnect axle shafts at transaxle.

    Detach shift lever and electrical connections to starter

    Unbolt exhaust at manifolds

    Find and unbolt four motor mounts and start engine removal.

    Remove front exhaust manifold when engine is part way up.

    Anything else?

    What problems am I going to run into?

    Thanks,
    Doug
     
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  3. irondogmike

    irondogmike Formula 3

    Sep 8, 2006
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    Michael Tucker
    I would ask newman or pm him now b4 you do something wrong,plus you want to know the easist way of doing it
     
  4. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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  5. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
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    Doug
    Lots of VERY good info there and in your synchro thread.

    Looks like a two day project, one day taking taking as much crap off the motor as possible, then lifting it out next day.

    Thanks,
    Doug
     
  6. M.James

    M.James F1 Rookie

    Jun 6, 2003
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    Michael.C.James
    +100....it took about six people a solid afternoon to remove stuff before Pizzaman could haul his engine out, and THAT was a seperate effort performed by some experienced folks the following day. First-timers should ignore the folks who say 'you can do it in a day'. You might if you've done it 50 times in your sleep, perhaps...but I doubt it.
     
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  8. brook308

    brook308 Formula Junior

    Oct 19, 2007
    336
    SS Coast, Australia
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    George
    Removed,Repaired and Refitted my gt4 engine earlier this year due to a broken valve and holed piston.

    I removed the 1-4 head (to diagnose the lack of compression on #2) before removing the engine.

    With the 1-4 head off it was very simple to remove the engine.

    I just put a lifting strap around the 5-8 head and this then tilted then engine enough to clear everything.

    The engine came out with mounts still attached and with the bell housing/clutch.

    I had the help of my wife during the lifting which only took about 1/2 hr. Putting the engine back in was another story.

    The engine went back in with all carbs and bellhousing/clutch attached. I had to remove the engine mount nearest the alternator 1/2 way through dropping the engine in as I had trouble lifting the 5-8 exhaust manifold up to the head.

    You must put the 5-8 exhaust manifold in the engine bay before starting the installation and then attach it to the head just before you can't get to the nuts anymore. If you have a car lift you may be able to attach the manifold once the engine is on it's mounts.

    I lifted the engine by the 5-8 head for the refit and found that I had to rotate the engine (lift it from the diff housing) towards the end of the fittment. As the 1-4 head was fitted things were a lot tighter than during the removal.

    It took about 2hrs to get the engine back in due to having to rotate the engine forward and r&r the engine mount.

    Here's the thread for some pics:

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227178&highlight=gt4+engine+dead

    Cheers

    George
     
  9. Jedi

    Jedi Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Mar 18, 2008
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    Boy you have quite the enviable sort of wife :D

    Jedi
     
  10. Helmut

    Helmut Formula Junior

    Dec 11, 2004
    635
    you don't have to unbolt the engine mounts, you should unbolt the 2 screws per mount that attach the brackets to the mounts.
    You will need a looong extension in order to unbolt the axles, you may have to reach in with the extension and then swing a breaker bar outside the wheelwell next to the car (those screws are tight), wheels and plastic cover inside fender is obviously all off. Make sure you clean out the allen heads and get the tool properly seated before applying torque, chances are you may strip some of those allen heads. You should replace all of those nuts and bolts with new ones anyways.

    When you tilt the engine correctly it will come straight out.
    I used a palette jack ( you can use a jack but the palette jack holds the engine nice and stable and it's easy to roll the engine back and forth slightly if needed) and raised the engine up just enough so that I was able to work with the header and to detach/attach the brackets which go from the engine onto the engine mounts (once you removed the 2 screws per mount which hold the enginebracket to the mounts then lift the engine slightly and then you can easily unbolt the brackets from the engine which may safe you a dent or two). It's safer to remove them before pulling or installing the engine.

    All in all I would say that if you are doing it for the first time, doing it all in one day is very optimistic, there will be plenty of moments when you just have to take your time and just think about the next move otherwise a lot can go wrong. For example you have to disconnect the starter which can be a pain if you haven't done it before. You have to make sure that you own all the right tools, the right extensions etc. The car has to be up high enough so you can work on it from underneath. I find that the nuts for the front bank are easily removed with a long extension and a universal joint at the end from under the car, trying to get your hands in there up close is very frustrating.

    Good luck,

    Helmut
     
  11. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
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    Cobbers, mate!

    With head or heads off, there isn't really much left to the engine.

    Helmut: Thanks. Also good info.

    I have the tools. Need a lift but can't make it fit in my garage, so jacking and stands will have to do.

    The starter is a pain, I had to unbolt it from the bell during a clutch change, many years ago. Totally blind operation, did it by feel only. I suspect I will simply cut the starter wires for motor removal, as I will do a remote electrical terminal strip for the starter wires on motor reinstall to make R&R easier.

    I will just take my time. Wait until it isn't 110* F outside to do this, and put wheels back on and roll it into garage at night if not complete.

    Doug
     
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  13. brook308

    brook308 Formula Junior

    Oct 19, 2007
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    SS Coast, Australia
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    George
    Spot on Doug,

    The hardest part about removing the engine was undoing the +12V feed to the starter.

    Making up a loom for the starter main feed, starter solenoid and alternator lamp with a junction point mounted on the body is the way to go for sure.

    Takes a bit of pain out of the refit.

    How far do you plan on going once the engine is out?
     
  14. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
    1,435
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    Doug
    This project includes upgrade/rebuild the Konis that are clunking (in process now), new brake hose and rebuild calipers (October),

    Install Birdmans new fuse blocks,( Perhaps end of this month)

    Rebuild window motors, (August)

    Remove motor and clean up and paint engine bay ( September or October), and

    for the motor, new 10-10.5:1 pistons, performance cam regrinds, mild head porting, motor overhaul of course, and custom step tube stainless headers (to be built locally).

    I will have the block and head work done by a local shop that used to build Indy Racing League motors, so they should know how to build high RPM motors. I will do reassembly, other than piston/ring fitting and installation into block and onto crank. Look at transaxle and see if needs parts also.

    Wish I could get it all done in 2 weeks, but that won't happen.

    Doug
     
  15. brook308

    brook308 Formula Junior

    Oct 19, 2007
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    George
    Cool,

    Do a bit of research on the cam regrind, my cams were shot and there wasn't enough material in the cams to regrind back to original euro profile.

    I was advised at the time that adding material to the old cams by way of resurfacing was not very sucessfull.

    There were a limited number of blanks held by a supplier in AU but they were in the order of $4-5K au for a set, way out of my budget. I ended up comming across a set of 2nd hand cams (not early euro grind unfortunatley) that were in good order.

    Cheers

    George
     
  16. 2dinos

    2dinos F1 Rookie

    Jan 13, 2007
    2,525
    My wife would help me. Answer the phone for me :)
     
  17. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    This sounds exciting Doug.

    We want pictures of the work. :)
     
  18. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    Join the club.:eek:

    I thought i was going to be done in August too................






    2008 :(
     
  19. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
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    Doug
    I know. You want done now, dammit, so you can drive it!

    My Corvette project was on and off the road about 6 months at various times over 18 months for the motor/repaint/interior redo. The paint was the longest, but only because I built a new motor as a replacement, rather the rebuilding what was in the car.

    The Ferrari motor rebuild will be the longest down time, as that will be 3-4 months, Probably save some time by having the motor torn down, figuring out what we need as far as pistons and bearings, crank work, then taking the block and heads and old exhaust manifolds to the header fabricator so they can build those while we wait for pistons and stuff to show up.

    Plus, i don't want a finished motor hanging out at the fabricators shop.

    Doug
     
  20. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
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    #17 FasterIsBetter, Jul 9, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Been there. Done that. Have the greasy T-shirt to prove it. LOL

    Pulled the 308 engine 2 years ago to do a major on it, clean up the engine bay, change all the fuel and coolant hoses, etc. Also converted to an Electromotive ignition system, installed modern Hi-torq starter, etc. Well worth the effort, but it took a couple of months to complete the project, working on it part time, some evenings and weekends.

    p.s. That's me holding the engine, and by friend Paul's wife kibitzing.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  21. Scott98

    Scott98 Formula 3
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    Nov 3, 2004
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    Can one just drop the engine from below?

    Scott
     
  22. irondogmike

    irondogmike Formula 3

    Sep 8, 2006
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    I think you can do that on some mondials,as for the 308's NO
     
  23. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    Great picture Steve. :)


    But that poor woman, she has that "hurry up and take the shot" look.
     
  24. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

    Apr 3, 2005
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    I don't mean to hijack the thread but isn't the mondial 3.2 engine a whole lot easier to remove? Specifically, the engine and transaxle and rear suspension coming out at a unit. I have two post lift and a four post lift and a transmission jack so between all of those I'm hoping it's not a whole weekend just to get the drivetrain out..... Anyone removed both a 308 out the top and a mondial out the bottom?? One much easier or more difficult than the other??
     

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